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Monday, September 29, 2014

Italy Comes Inland: Fair Play & Fiano

It takes an Italian to fully appreciate all the Italian grape varieties, so when Mastroserio Winery opened their doors in the Fair Play region of El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, Fiano was a variety that needed to be part of the portfolio. Fiano? What the hell is Fiano? Ah, glad you asked. Fiano is a white grape that dates back to Roman or possibly even Greek times. Currently it’s found mainly n southern Italian regions including Campania and Sicily but rarely found elsewhere in the world…yet you can find it in California’s Sierra Foothills (see my article The 25 MostOdd-Ball Grapes in California). Their 2010 Fiano offers a mild lemon curd, orangey-apricot with an underlying mineral note and mild acidity, but with a smooth and thick viscosity. It holds itself on the palate and possesses enough sharpness that it’s not some oak-clobbered white wine; rather it has a depth of weight to it. In fact, it drinks more like a red wine. At this point the production is tiny, just 200 cases. Get it only at the tasting room only  - and if you haven’t visited the Sierra Foothills wine region you’re cheating yourself. MASTROSERIO WINERY
ORIGIN: Yolo County, California
PRICE: $18 - 750/ml
ALCOHOL: 12.2%

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