I don’t promote wines I don’t
like, and often times certain wines from certain regions just don’t work well,
in spite of wineries planting the same tired grape over and over, thereby
creating a tedious version of something you can get better elsewhere. All that
to say the Chardonnays from the Sierra Foothills have been lackluster. It just
isn’t the best spot to grow it. So imagine my double take when I tried the 2012 Lava Cap Winery Chardonnay. I was
not prepared for what I had just tasted. Sure, Chardonnay is ubiquitous, but at
$18 this has terrific acidity and the new French Oak is all caramel, and a
subtle smoky element with a touch of citrus. They perform a battonage on it – meaning after the
yeast converts the sugars to alcohol, the tiny dead yeast cells are stirred up
inside the wine barrel, which adds additional flavor and texture to a wine. At
14.6 this Chardonnay is a big boy, but it does not drink that way and frankly
I’d take this over more expensive Chards
from Sonoma in a heartbeat. I love the mouth feel on this and the slight
bite at the end.
I hold in my hand...the lava cap! |
Lava Cap Winery has been in the Foothills, near to
Placerville, for a quarter century and is one of the leaders in the wine
industry in this underappreciated region (hint: Forgo Napa and drive to the
Foothills, El Dorado, Amador, Calaveras counties - 40 minutes east of
Sacramento). Their winery name refers to the actual cap of old, thick lava that permeates parts of the lower Sierra Nevada Mountains.
And that cap has created some pretty cool growing conditions in terms of unique
soils of volcanic clay mixed with minerals. The bottom line? Chard from this
region does not excel, but this Chardonnay does and it will surprise you. Worth
every penny, go find it. LAVA CAP WINERY
2012 Lava Cap Winery Chardonnay
ORIGIN: El Dorado County,
Sierra Foothills, California
PRICE: $18 - 750/ml
ALCOHOL: 14.6%
BOOZEHOUNDZ SCORE: 91
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