Cheese
and wine have always had a long, sensuous love affair, and I love seeing both of
them together like some kind of dirty porn film.
It
seems like everybody wants to pair wine and cheese and whereas I'm not opposed
to that idea my philosophy is that people eat and drink what they like and
don't worry about it. But recently I had the chance to have a Santa Barbara
Rhône wine, Seth Kunin’s very able 2013 Pape Star (a blend of Mourvèdre with
additions of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault) and Fromager d’Affinois Brebicet, a
double cream sheep’s milk cheese from France. Yes,
they work beautifully together, a culinary dance of sublime beauty and damn
good texture. Seth’s Pape Star honors the Châteauneuf-du-Pape region and has
bright blackberry, black cherry fruit, hints of vanilla and cedar and a mild
acidity, actually deeper berry notes that make this a richer wine. The double
cream by contrast not only has an incredible seductive viscosity but also
presents a slight blue cheese note with a nutty, buttery, salty bite. The point
of food and wine is to try combinations and pairing, not to seek out that
elusive “perfect” pairing – since it does not exist - but to play, explore and
let your palate be overwhelmed with foods and wines that make sense in that
moment. For me, these two nail it. The Brebicet is available at Whole Foods
nationwide and Seth Kunin’s underappreciated wines, about 5,000 cases are more
limited. Try one, preferably both, but try something new!
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