Wine Each Week: 2014 Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico

Ruffino’s wines had such a reputation that the Duke of Aosta, (that’s him on the label) made Ruffino the official wine of his royal family. 

The 2014 Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva Gran Selezione, first produced in 1947, is mainly Sangiovese (85%), with Merlot and Colorino fermented as separate lots then blended together. The wine was aged for one year in traditional large, neutral oak Slovenian casks. After a year, the wine was transferred into small barrels for another 12 months of aging. Neutral oak allows the blend to fully integrate and develop a more elegant and complex flavor profile without being altered. The wine then spends four months in bottle to allow it to settle before release.

This offers earthy blackberry, huckleberry and boysenberry notes, cherry, rhubarb, violet, cherry, and plum, a light sweet vanilla that hugs the edges but allows the fruit to shine through. The oak treatment is limited and the tannins are mild to medium. This is a rounded expression than past years and is exactly what you want from a Chianti - structure, balance, food friendly and simply fun to drink.

ORIGIN:

ALCOHOL: 14.5%

PRICE: $40.99/ 750ML

SCORE: 91 POINTS

RUFFINO

The 300 - Chianti Classico

Chianti Classico celebrated its 300th anniversary in 2016.  To celebrate I tasted two of Ruffino’s both wines are named for the Duke of Aosta, (that’s him on the labels) who made Ruffino the official wine of the royal family after journeying across the Alps just to try them. Now that’s dedication. Like any defined wine region Chianti has many strict rules that govern the wine from there, such as Chianti Classico where wines must be aged for at least a year, be a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, have a maximum yield of 7.5 tons/hectare (just under 2.5 acres), so you’re yields are about three tons per acre, right in the middle of that sweet spot. Italian wine can be a little confusing, but know this - Chianti on a label is different than Chianti Classico. My focus here is classic Chianti.

The Riserva Ducale Chianti Classico Riserva ($24.99), first produced in 1927 is 80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Fermentation, aided by racking and punch downs, took place in temperature-controlled stainless steel vats for 10 days, followed by another 10 days of maceration on the skins. The wine underwent secondary malolactic fermentation to enhance its texture, then was aged for 24 months in oak, stainless steel, and concrete vats. The Riserva Ducale spent an additional three months in bottle before release. So what’s in the bottle? There’s soft mild fruit, cherry, raspberry, rhubarb with savory tobacco, white pepper, and herbaceous underpinnings. The limited oak does not over power yet helps make this more round in the mouth, filling all the edges.

The 2011 Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro Chianti Classico Riserva Gran Selezione ($40.99) was first made in 1947 is 80% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot fermented as separate lots. The wine was aged for about one year in traditional large, neutral oak Slovenian casks. After a year, the wine was transferred into small barriques for another 12 months. Neutral oak allowed the blend to fully integrate and develop a more elegant and complex flavor profile without being altered. The wine then spent four months in bottle to allow it to settle before release. With the Oro you’re immediately hit with classic Sangiovese, cherry, rhubarb, violet, cherry, and plum. There’s a light sweet vanilla that hugs the edges but allows the fruit to shine through.

When the Moon Hits Your Eye – The Ultimate Guide to Italian Wine

People think I'm Italian. I'm not. I’m something of a global mutt, but I do like to drink and write about Italian wines, and as a wine buyer, I’ve always had some cool Italian wines in my wine departments. For many people Italian wine is a confusing, convoluted subject. Just like France there are a myriad number of rules that govern what wines can be made with which grapes and what percentages, not to mention that some of the names are long, laborious, tongue twisters. Good for us that Dr. Wine has come out with yet another volume, the most comprehensive, about Italian wines. The Ultimate Guide to Italian Wines 2017, authored Daniele Cernilli, AKA Dr. Wine, breaks it all down. I recently had lunch with the Good Doctor in Santa Barbara, tasting through several Italian wines he was showcasing, and I can tell you firsthand, Doc knows his stuff. As a brief side note the eight wines he brought were terrific and I found two of them the 2016 Torre Rosazza Pinot Grigio, and the 2012 Velenosi Roggio del Filare (a blend of 70% Montepulciano and 30% Sangiovese) to both be exceptional.

Dr. Wine

The book is broken down by region, starting with Abruzzo and ending with Veneto. He discusses each region and gives specific detailed info on them, then lists the wineries as well as their best known wines, all rated by points, price and an overall star rating of the winery a, “historical evaluation based on the reliability and prestige of the winery.” As comprehensive as the book is, it is all text; you’re not getting pretty pictures and maps, sidebars of places to eat or anything else. You’re getting Italian wine. This also allows this tome to be so inexpensive for its size (over 500 pages). Every wine lover needs to know and understand the great wine regions of the world. Sure, this won’t make you an expert, but it will give clarity to Italy’s many growing regions and, better still, if you’re traveling in those regions, this will hone your visits to some of the best wineries they offer.

The Ultimate Guide to Italian Wine 2017
Published by MD Communications, Rome
581 pages/$20

Italian and English Versions

If it’s Tuesday it Must be Tuscany: The Wines of Frescobaldi

Frescobaldi is a wine name nearly synonymous with Italy and Sangiovese. The history of the Frescobaldi family begins around the year 1,000, during Medieval Florence times. The Frescobaldi’s quickly became a family of wealth and power (unlike my clan). Perhaps most notably Dino Frescobaldi played an important role when he rescued his poet-friend from exile, a guy named Dante Alighieri, who wrote a little piece called the Divine Comedy. Not to be outdone Gerolamo Frescobaldi was an early composer of Baroque music. The family started wine production at the beginning of the year 1,300, and Frescobaldi wines became so well known that they were served at the Papal Court, and the Court of Henry the Eighth. It’s not known if any of his eight wives ever got to try a Frescobaldi wine, but we’re pretty sure, if they had, they would have liked them. Currently Frescobaldi owns five estate sites throughout Italy and chances are you’d had one of their wines. A recent tasting of several of their wines shows why they dominate. The Montesodi 2011 ($30) is all Sangiovese, soft and mild with black cherry and cedar and a medium finish. The Nipozzano Vecchie Viti 2011 ($33) is 90% Sangiovese and the other 10% made up of Malvasia, Nera, Colorino and Canaiolo, resulting in a smooth, bright fruit wine with a nice touch of acidity. The Castelgiocondo Brunello 2008 is 100% Sangiovese and has a nose of earth, mint, and eucalyptus with palate flavors of restrained bright red fruits. What’s impressive is that the quality of their wine has held the course of time, and that’s one for the ages. FRESOBALDI

And check out my Q&A from INTOWINE.COM I did with Leonardo Frescobaldi for more in depth info on their thoughts of wine, consumerism and ratings.