Wine Each Week – J. Lohr’s Cabernet Sauvignons

Jerry Lohr is considered one of the pioneers of the Paso Robles wine industry. Located in Northern San Luis Obispo County, the trajectory of the Paso Robles region is nothing short of astounding. Beginning in 1972 Jerry began planting grapes, mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. J. Lohr has gone on to be a powerhouse winery with their wines in all 50 states, a broad portfolio and a commitment to sustainability including extensive use of solar and dramatic water reduction. But ultimately it’s about the wines and these two diverse Cabernet’s best showcase their range. I have tasted these two wines through many vintages and frankly these are the cleanest and best iterations that I have experience from them. Both are worth seeking out, depending on your wallet. J. LOHR

2016 Cuvee PAU

This is a wine meant to pay respect to the blends of Bordeaux of the Pauillac region in France. It is however, decidedly American. Comprised mainly of Cabernet Sauvignon (69%) there is also Cabernet Franc, Petite Verdot and a dash of Malbec. It starts with a silky smooth texture on the pallet. Then the notes of subtle black cherry, current, blackberry, blueberry with back notes of red cherry, raspberry overtake you. The oak and acidity are both mild, almost muted, and not pulling focus from the sheer tactile experience of drinking this wine. It is pleasurable but also comforting. 18 months in barrel, then 20 months of bottle aging ensures this has hit its sweet spot.

509 cases.

ORIGIN: Paso Robles, California

ALCOHOL: 14.9%

PRICE: $60 (750ML)

SCORE: 92 POINTS

2018 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon

The major complaint of most Cabernet Sauvignon is that it is too expensive. It can reach stratospheric heights in the Napa Valley and elsewhere. But when you just want a Cabernet Sauvignon as a weekly wine for your dinner the J. Lohr Seven Oaks fits that bill very nicely. Priced at a mere $19 this delivers exceptional quality for the price. Made up of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (88.5%). There is also Petite Sirah, Petit Verdot, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Black cherry, blueberry, red raspberry, surprisingly tight tannins and mild acidity along with a judicious use of oak makes this wine a very enjoyable and very easy to drink Cabernet. You’ll be hard pressed to find this kind of quality for this price most anywhere.

ORIGIN: Paso Robles, California

ALCOHOL: 13.9%

PRICE: $19 (750ML)

SCORE: 90 POINTS

When Boars Fly: Gary Eberle Gets a Big-Ass Award

Before I ever knew anything about wine I was working at a Murder Mystery event in Paso Robles for a private party. I think I got killed early in the evening and was probably dead while the guests finished their catered dinner. There was wine on the table, some label I didn’t know because I didn’t know anything at that point. It was a Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon from Eberle Winery. Since I was a scavenger and poor, when the party ended I absconded with a half empty bottle of wine, when home and promptly drank it. Thus began my man-crush on Gary Eberle and a turning point into a world of wine I could never have imagined. Now as a professional wine writer and wine judge, I still recall that most excellent wine crafted by Gary Eberle. So when the California State Fair (they run a large wine competition which I have judged at) correctly decided to honor Gary Eberle with their Wine Lifetime Achievement Award it was like, what took you so long? Gary Eberle has been called the Father of Paso Robles wine, the Godfather of Paso; it really doesn’t matter because he is one of the two most important men (including Jerry Lohr) in the history of the Paso Robles wine.

Dinner in the vineyard with Gary, August 2014

Eberle Winery is one of the most awarded wineries in the nation with literally thousands of awards and accolades. Originally from Pennsylvania, Gary found wine at an early age. “I suddenly discovered what James Bond was talking about,” he told me. “I was young and stupid and went from drinking Boone’s Farm to Chateau Latour.” Fresh out of U.C. Davis, he and a few investors bought 160 acres in Paso back in 1973 when the place was mainly large tracts of dirt. He started by heading his family’s Estrella River Winery. In 1980 he co-founded the Paso Robles Appellation and in 1983, Gary opened the doors to his own Eberle Winery with the premiere of his 1979 Cabernet Sauvignon. Eberle Winery’s Cab was the first wine to place the Paso Robles AVA designation on its label. Gary was also the first to plant Syrah on the Central Coast, and the first to make a 100% Syrah varietal wine in the United States.

Judging with Gary at the San Diego International Wine Competition

As if that wasn’t enough I placed Gary at #43 on IntoWine.com’s Top 100 Most InfluentialWinemaker’s list; the winery was the recipient of the “Winery of the Year” as voted by the wine judges at the CentralCoast Wine Competition in 2014 (caveat #1: I am a wine judge here too). But Gary, ever modest, takes his milestones in stride instead preferring to promote Paso and his love of red wines (“A wine’s first obligation is to be red,” he recently told me), specifically Cabernet. “If you want to know how good Paso Robles Cabernet is,” Gary once told me, “have a blind tasting of Napa Cabernet and a Paso Robles Cabernet. We may not always come out on top, but we can compete against Bordeaux and Napa first growths.” And having started my wine writing/judging career on the back of his wines, I know he’s right. “We have the potential to have the same reputation as Sonoma or even better.” Well, that may still be a ways off, but if Paso focuses its energies collectively, the region will be able to stand its own ground. And much of that is do to Gary as a believer in the region and a fighter for better quality wine from the region.

I love being on the Eberle property, almost as much as I love the wines.

A visit to the Eberle tasting room off Highway 46 East begins with the bronze statute of a boar sitting out front of the main doors, a replica of an original from 1620 that sits in Italy. Eberle in German means “little boar,” and it’s considered good luck to rub the boar’s nose and toss a coin in the water. All money collected at the Eberle boar fountain is then donated to local children’s charities. The winery offers a free 30-minute tour of their facility, discussing the entire winemaking process and if you’ve never taken a tour, this is a great crash course on wine education. And if education seems too formulaic, consider another of Gary’s nuggets of wine wisdom. “The difference between wine and children is that you can sit down and reason with a bottle of Cabernet.” See, this is why I like the man. The winery also has a beautiful picnic area overlooking the vines and a bocce ball court. And Eberle is heavily involved in the community, most notably being the founder of the long running Winemaker’s Cook-Off held each August (caveat #2 – I am one of the judges at this fantastic event too), which raises money for local charities. The annual event pulls in 30 winemakers who personally grill up their best dishes to match their wines. It’s a feast of food and wine with live music and has raised nearly $500,000 for local high school charities. Damn!

So, if you don’t care that someone was a warded a lifetime achievement award, that’s okay, in spite of the fact that Gary Eberle is the most deserving person to get this award. What’s not okay is to bypass Eberle Winery when you visit, or drive through, Paso. Check it out for yourself, rub the boar’s nose and enjoy the wine. It’s that simple. Eberle Winery - 3810 Highway 46 East, Paso Robles. They are open everyday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Phone (805) 238-9607.

Creating Pedigree: Cabernet & Paso Robles

Napa lays claim to Cabernet Sauvignon like they invented it. They didn’t of course in spite of being the dominant region in the U.S. However Paso Robles is positioning itself to challenge Napa and this central California region is producing Cabernet and Bordeaux blends offering terrific value and diversity, something Napa often takes for granted.

“There is something about the Napa Valley’s unique topography, climate and growing season that is perfectly suited to Cabernet,” says Ann Colgin of Napa’s Colgin Estate, whose Cabernets sell for $300 (ouch). “While Napa Valley wines can be expensive, there is no substitute for the pedigree of fruit this region is capable of producing.” And she’s correct…to a degree. But pedigree will only take you so far, you still need to deliver the goods, at a price and perceived value the consumer will buy. Let’s be honest – average wine consumers are not buying $300 bottles of Napa Cabernet.

“If you want to know how good Paso Robles Cabernet is,” suggests Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery, “have a blind tasting of Napa Cabernet and a Paso Robles Cabernet. We may not always come out on top, but we can compete against Bordeaux and Napa first growths,” he says. But can Paso Cabernet compete in an already crowded field? “Consumers can expect wines that are approachable immediately but yet will age beautifully for years,” says Daniel Daou of Daou Vineyards, one of the founders of PRCC. “An indication of a great terroir is where ripeness can be achieved most if not all the time. In Paso Robles we achieve ripeness consistently from year to year and our wines come from soils that are calcareous, so they don't have to be acidulated,” Daou says. Is Paso Robles the ideal spot to grow Cabernet? “I looked for 10 years for the perfect place to grow Cabernet,” Daou tells me, including searching Argentina, Spain and Bordeaux. “Paso is cooler than Calistoga, we have the right soils. I believe that Paso is the ultimate appellation for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, but we need a little time to reach our potential.”

Unconvinced? Well then the Paso Robles Cabernet Collective held April 25^th - 30^th is just for you. There are winery tasting room events, the ubiquitous Grand Tasting on Saturday, April 26th, winemaker dinners, and the like. Should you go? Yes. Will Paso Robles compete against Napa for Cabernet supremacy? Well, not for a while. But having sampled some of the top Cabernet producers like Daou, L’Aventure, Justin, Eberle, Jada, Vina Robles, Halter Ranch, Robert Hall and others, there is the possibility that if Napa blinks, Paso Robles will pounce, and attending the Paso Robles Cabernet Collective’s Cabs of Distinction will give you a window into the future.

PASO ROBLES CAB COLLECTIVE