The Donn Abides – The Passing of Donn Chappellet

I didn’t know Donn, at least not personally. We had never met. He lived in Napa, and I in Santa Barbara. He started a winery and I started wine writing. My most recent mention of Chappellet wines was May 13th, in a Tweet about the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, which hit over 1,000 impressions. Donn Chappellet passed away on May 22nd at age 84 – too young by my estimation.

I have included Chappellet wines in a variety of articles; for The Hollywood Reporter, IntoWine.com, and most recently for Planet Experts about wineries that support earth-friendly practices writing, “In Napa, Chappellet Vineyard began in the early 1980s (long before the term ‘sustainable’ was even used), to plant cover crops for soil conservation and erosion prevention. In 2012, their 102-acre vineyard earned its organic certification from the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). Chappellet has a 20,000-square-foot solar photovoltaic system that generates 100% of the winery’s energy needs. They also installed a state-of-the-art water processing system that allows the winery to return nearly 100% of their processed water (about one million gallons each year) to the vineyard for irrigation.”

I included Donn in my IntoWine.com’s Second Annual “Top 100 MostInfluential People in the U.S. Wine Industry,” listing him as #94, writing, “Chappellet was the first winery to pioneer high-elevation vineyard planting, establishing mountain-grown Cabernets as some of California’s most coveted wines. The winery has also served as an incubator for some of California’s legendary winemaking talents, including Phil Togni, Joe Cafaro, Tony Soter, Helen Turley, Mia Klein, Cathy Corison and current winemaker Phillip Corallo-Titus. Chappellet has been lauded by every major wine magazine.”

“Dad was the kindest, most thoughtful person,” son Cyril Chappellet said in a press release. “He was our rock, our mentor, and an inspiration, not just to our entire family, but to so many others as well. He was also humble beyond belief. Despite everything he accomplished, he never took the credit. He always preferred to give others the stage. Along with my mom, my dad created the foundation that our family has been building on for the past 50 years. He believed that the best was still yet to come for Chappellet. Now it is our turn to honor that dream, and his wonderful legacy.”

And what better words can be said of someone’s passing – the idea that the best is still out there, perhaps just beyond reach, but likely within reach of another generations. If you haven’t had any of Chappellet wines, do try one, from their Chennin Blanc, or Malbec, Petite Sirah or Chardonnay to the 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon ($60), and raise a glass to a man you never met, one who made the world better in a number of ways you never knew about – something we can all strive for. Godspeed Donn.

In lieu of flowers or gifts, please consider donating in the name of Donn Chappellet to the Wildlife Rescue Center of Napa County or to the St. Helena Hospital Foundation.

Wildlife Rescue Center of Napa County

PO Box 2571 Napa, CA 94558

www.napawildliferescue.org

St. Helena Hospital Foundation

10 Woodland Road

St. Helena, CA 94574

https://foundation.sthelenahospitals.org

Garage Doors – Opening Unknown Wines

The French have a word for everything and we Americans adopt many of those terms in the wine world. I’m not sure why, but I guess tedious American words don’t have the same panache and sex appeal as French words. Anyhoo, Garagiste is one of those French words. It means, as the word implies, garage. Which brings us to the Garagiste Festival. The point of this wine festival is to showcase small wine producers (as in working out of their garage, though not literally), most without a tasting room, distribution or much exposure except what they have managed to cobble together on their own. Think of this as the Sundance Film Festival for independent wine.

Cloak & Dagger wine labels

It started in Paso Robles and I attended the first iteration, which has grown to include 300 wineries and has become immensely popular because we all want to be on the cusp of the next big thing. Why it’s important to showcase small, relatively unknown wineries should be obvious but especially for people like me, a wine writer and a wine buyer for an upscale market in Montecito, California, is that I can bring more attention to the little guy by way of articles and wines on a shelf.  Since the public can attend, you should consider going, especially if you’re a wine nerd.

For Garagiste Southern Exposure held in Solvang, standout wines included Alta Colina - who by now actually don’t fit the exact terms of Garagisite as they produce about 2,000 cases, but they were one of the founding members and now receive national press (including my article in The HollywoodReporter). Alta Colina showcases the best of Paso Robles and Rhone wines. Also noteworthy is Baehner Fournier from Santa Barbara and their 2013 Petite Verdot. And Larner whose Syrahs and Rhone wines coming from Ballard Canyon are exceptional. “There is Syrah planted in every AVA in Santa Barbara, but the reason it does well in Ballard is because we don’t have to work hard at it,” Michael Larner told me when I interviewed him for The Tasting Panel Magazine. “We have the Golidiocks syndrome - It’s not too hot, not too cold. Our Syrah has the pepper spice from cooler areas like Santa Rita Hills, it has the abundant fruit you get from Happy Canyon (Santa Barbara’s warmest growing area) solid tannins and acidity structure.” If you’ve not tried Larner wines, you need to check them out. 

I also found Small + Tall who is creating dynamic Pinot Noir from both the Santa Rita Hills and Santa Maria Valley in Santa Barbara. There are many other wines of course and I cannot list them all here, but consider any of the Garagiste Festivals and new wine doors will open for you.

Most Likely to Succeed - Boozehoundz’s Most Popular of 2015

As a writer I certainly have my favorite articles out of the myriad number of I’ve written throughout 2015 - witty, urbane writing, or so I lead myself to believe. Yet every year I am surprised by which articles you, the reader, actually prefer to read. So here are Boozehoundz’s most popular of 2015 as chosen by readers from across the globe. So read up, and drink up!

Summer Sauvignon Blanc

Far and away the single most popular wine article I wrote for all of 2015 across multiple venues. Originally penned for The Hollywood Reporter, I suppose the unrelenting summer heat helped propel this one to the top of the rankings. What’s ironic is that Sauvignon Blanc is one of my least favorite wines. Go figure.

http://www.boozehoundz.blogspot.com/2015/08/sipping-summer-sauvignon-blancs-to-beat.html

Boarish: Gary Eberle’s Big Ass Award

I’ve known Gary Eberle for many years, judge with him at wine competitions, have written about him and his wines and have been a part of his Winemaker’s Cook-off each August as a guest judge in Paso Robles for a number of years (incidentally the coolest wine event all year – get you some tickets). So when he won a big award, well, no surprise, and no surprise that this article placed Number 2.

http://www.boozehoundz.blogspot.com/2015/03/when-boars-fly-gary-eberle-gets-big-ass.html

Drink Like an Irishman

St. Patrick’s day is always a booze fest and this article of all thing Irish, also originally written for The Hollywood Reporter, took the Number 3 spot and why not? Killer Irish whiskey, Irish Cream, Irish Coffee, even Irish Cheese – this is your one-stop Emerald Isle in a bottle sort of thang.

http://www.boozehoundz.blogspot.com/2015/03/the-pluck-of-irish-what-to-tipple-for.html

A Rosé for Rossellini: The Wine of Cannes

Eva Longoria at Cannes

The Cannes Film Festival is one of the most star studded and glamorous events on Planet Earth. And sure, it’s about the movies but it’s also about fashion, food, wine, and being seen. Though I cover wines and spirits for The Hollywood Reporter, I’ve not been invited to Cannes so I am one of the many unseen. Yet you and I can still participate in Cannes, to a small degree, by having one of the wines that are poured at the festival. Mouton Cadet is one of France’s most successful wine brands and they set up their Mouton Cadet Wine Bar overlooking Cannes and the glimmering water of the Bay. 

One of the wines poured is their 2014 Limited Edition Rosé made from Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s light enough to say summer, but it has a bit of heft, with quiet raspberry and cherry, a hint of lemon-lime, a mild acidity, and it’s immensely drinkable. So you’ve got a lovely little wine for around 13 bucks. That the movie stars are drinking this wine including Eva Longoria, Cate Blanchett, Colin Farrell, Isabella Rossellini, John C. Reilly, Josh Brolin, Ben Wishaw and others bodes well for us mere mortals who can nonetheless drink like the stars with a cost that is firmly planted on the ground. Okay, so we’re not having cocktails with Cate, appetizers with Eva and joking around with Josh, but wherever you go in life, if you’re blessed with good wine and good company that can always make you feel like a star. www.moutoncadet.com

Cate Blanchett

Foreign Pressed: What to Drink While Watching the Golden Globe Awards

The Hollywood Foreign Press Association has been passing out, er rather passing out awards, for 70 years. What makes watching the Globes gripping is that our favorite actors drink during dinner at the Beverly Hills Hotel, which means that anything might be possible. So I scoured the real golden globe and found the best foreign-made booze to help keep the show and your attention moving. My pick of 10 wines and spirits from countries with nominating members and representation in the Hollywood Foreign Press Association to help keep your head and the globe spinning. (NOTE: The original version of this article was first published in The Hollywood Reporter. As a former actor – Young and the Restless, 3^rd Rock from the Sun, Grace Under Fire – I miss my acting days, but I think I like writing about booze better.)

Moet & Chandon Grand Vintage:

Moet has been the official Champagne served at the Golden Globes for 24 years. I love the idea that celebs get loopy in public and that TV and feature film folk come together to talk, drink, and drink while talking, making for the only awards show to be truly entertaining and revealing. For the 2015 awards show Moet is pouring their 2004 Grand Vintage Brut Rose and is made up of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier into a dry style which is a delightful mix of fine pinpoint bubbles, pomegranate, currant, subtle black cherry, green apple and a crisp acidity. ($70, moet.com)

Alsace, France - Helfrich 2012 Pinot Gris:

If there is truly a Theory of Everything, then Alsace would be the center of everything wine. Though it is now part of France, it was formerly part of Germany, and part of the Roman Empire if you go way back. Good thing the wines from this region only care about bringing pleasure across borders, like a Sony-North Korea reunion tour. If you assume Pinot Gris is an insipid white wine then you’ve never had a true iteration. Helfrich produces a terrific wine of weight and flesh with apricot, orange, sweet cherry and a creamy viscosity, all grown on one of the oldest vineyards with a history dating back to 589 AD. ($25, helfrich-wines.com)

Austria – Feindestillerie Plum Schnapps:

The tiny village of Stanz in Austria is the schnapps capital of the world, and if The Sound of Music cast were drinking this while filming near here the songs might have made more sense (there is an Edelweiss schnapps too, by the way). Authentic schnapps is not the crappy version you bought at your local liquor store at 2 a.m. for a fast and furious buzz. Owner and distiller Christoph Kossler has won plenty of awards for his pure unadulterated schnapps, which is simply just distilled fruit, or sometimes roots of plants. Therefore the sugar plum schnapps tastes exactly like plum, with the kick of a lot of alcohol. Typically schnapps is served after dinner as a digestive, something you might need to digest when the studio bumps your film’s release date…again. ($40, edelbraendtirol.at)

Canada - Inniskillin 2013 Vidal Ice Wine:

Canadian Ice wine is an ideal after dinner wine not only because it is one of the quintessential dessert wines of the world, but like any reputable studio exec it literally has ice in its veins. Ice wine is harvested in the dead of winter and once pressed the grapes offer merely a drop or two of highly concentrated juice and frankly Jane the Virgin would not be one if she was drinking this. Sweet honey and apricot and a silky sweet/tart nectar of mango, apricot, clover honey, sweet vanilla, with a subtle but properly focused acidity makes this like velvet going down – insert your own joke here. ($55, inniskillin.com)

Chile - Santa Rita Triple C:

Santa Rita Winery was founded in 1880 in Chile’s Maipo Valley, long before Chile’s first feature film was made in 1910. The Triple C takes Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère and blends them together in appropriate, but unequal amounts, much like star, director and producer. To honor the Globes this wine is best consumed with friends and partners; a pleasant wine in which to bask in your signed contract, assuming the ink is dry. This wine offers black cherry, pomegranate, blackberry, a hint of cedar and tobacco. ($40, santarita.com)

China - Jian Nan Chun Baijiu:

Baijiu (pronounced bye-joe) has been consumed in China for ages and the Jian Nan Chun iteration first started distilling around 800 AD, about the time Cecil B. DeMille was born. So what exactly is baijiu? Though there are different recipes across China, you need to go Into The Woods to find a mix of distilled sorghum and various grains like rice, wheat and corn. Baijiu is a sipping, celebratory drink, used most often at Chinese New Year and for toasting (Presidents Clinton and Nixon sipped this in China) so this is ideal if you win big at the Globes. The clear liquid presents an explosion of anise, licorice, and eucalyptus and a slight funk – think blue cheese and you’re on track. ($60, baijiuamerica.com)

England - London No.1 Gin:

If the good folks of Downton Abby were more chic and less uptight the Crawley’s and their servants might be drinking this classic British gin (though the show did win Golden Globes in 2012 and 2013). Using 12 botanicals from across the globe like juniper from Croatia, cinnamon from Sri Lanka, and proper British grain from Suffolk and Norfolk (northeast of London), this lightly colored aqua marine gin offers up a nose of orange and lemon peel, cinnamon which translates to licorice, all spice and coriander. Long live the queen, and gin! ($40, thelondon1.com)

Japan - Yoshinogawa Winter Warrior Saké:

Everyone’s heard of Saké, also known as rice wine, but most people have not actually tasted Saké, the good kind anyway, so it’s time to think nice about rice. The Yoshinogawa Winter Warrior is from the fifth oldest brewery in the world, longer than most awards shows have been around. From the semi sweet nose of muted citrus to the tropical notes on the palate of lightly floral fragrances and restrained musty flavors, this is a Saké for at least seven of your favorite samurai to enjoy. ($27, sakeone.com)

Mexico - Del Maguey Vida Single Village Mezcal:

Yes George Clooney has his own branded tequila, but the newlywed may want to consider Mezcal, considered the parent of tequila. Mezcal is made from the agave plant, just like tequila, but it comes from a different part of Mexico in Oaxaca and was first created by the Aztecs. This organic mezcal, one of 18 iterations they produce, is distilled twice in copper pots over wood and flame and offers a specific nose of campfire smoke and sweet tangerine. The smokiness and tart/sweet combination of citrus, resin and cherry fills the mouth ending with a slight bite and a woody aftertaste. ($40, delmaguey.com)

Scotland - The Macallan 12 Single Malt Scotch:

Though Scotland voted down cessation - they “missed it by that much” as Maxwell Smart would have said - it still leads the world in terms of whisky. The Macallan 12 Year Old, is a single malt aged in Sherry casks from Spain, and has a nose of pure caramel, butterscotch vanilla and cedar. But this 12 year old also hits the palette with, citrus, resin and a little bite. A dash of water brings forth apricot and orange rind. Great for sipping or cocktails, this is that long-term quiet drink, meant to be nursed over time, most likely ideal for when the Globes are over and you wonder why you weren’t nominated this year. ($60, themacallan.com)

So You Think You Can Drink?

I can’t dance…at least not well. But Villa San Juliette Winery in Paso Robles, California does have a few moves. Owned by Nigel Lythgoe and Ken Warwick, whose TV producer credits include America’s Got Talent, So You Think You Can Dance, and American Idol, and several others, started making wine. Sure, I can hear you now – “just another rich guys dream,” you mumble. Yes, they are probably wealthy, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t serious about wine, nor is their wine stupid expensive. In addition to visiting the stunning property in Creston, just outside of Paso Robles, and having had many of their wines (including their Cabernet which I wrote about for The Hollywood Reporter: see that article HERE) I know whereof I speak.

Case in point: The VSJ 2013 Reserve Rosé. I love and promote rosé and if you are put off by this kind if wine you need to boogie over to the VSJ property and try this. Made from an eclectic collection of 36% Grenache, 33% Petite Sirah, 18% Syrah, 12% Zinfandel, and 1% Viognier, there is a balance of acidity, a richness from the Syrah, culminating in a deep strawberry, pomegranate, raspberry flavors with, a slight tang; light enough to be ideal for warm summer days, and rich enough to be enjoyed anytime when the sun doesn’t shine. My frustration is that many people won’t try rosé and yes, there are many inferior versions out there: sweet, simple one trick ponies, but this VSJ will show you a different way to waltz. And it’s twenty bucks. What? Seriously, though only available in their tasting room (see pretty photo) it’s worth a visit not only for this pink baby, but to sample their collection. So you think you’re into wine? Prove it. Check out this rosé –then email me and let me know what you think.  VILLA SAN JULIETTE

ORIGIN: Paso Robles, California

PRICE: $20 - 750/ml

ALCOHOL: 14.5%

BOOZEHOUNDZ SCORE:  89 POINTS

300 Wine Bloggers Walk Into a Bar...

I’m not a joiner. I rarely attend conferences unless I’m speaking at them because I have a pretty hectic schedule as it is, but when the annual Wine Bloggers Conference - 2014 was held in my backyard in Santa Barbara winecountry, I had to attend. I had never been to this three day conference before and frankly there was little impetus to go in the past. But proximity was the deciding factor and I confess I’m glad I went.

Regardless of what you may think of bloggers (and there are very talented bloggers with a huge reach, and those who struggle to construct an intelligent sentence) this conference is about blogging but I think more importantly it is about the future of wine writing. I’m fortunate to write about wine for international magazines like Decanter (London), Fine Wine & Liquor (China), and U.S. publications like The Tasting Panel, and The HollywoodReporter, (and of course this blog) and whereas many people mistakenly believe that print publications have more intrinsic value than blogs, the future of all print publications including magazines and newspapers are evolving. Blogs and websites are changing the wine discussion, bringing small producers who rarely get media coverage to a wider public, advancing grape varieties and wine maybe you’ve never heard of to a thirsty public, and have few constraints in terms of what is acceptable story telling. And this is what the Wine Bloggers Conference does – it continually stokes the embers of writers to keep doing their best, if not outright outdoing their best.

Sure there are panels on making money, SEO, trends and topics and each conference is a great chance for the host wine region to showoff its uniqueness and history. The WBC in Santa Barbara brought out old school winemakers, new kids, the politics of wine and panels on wines from across the globe. A few highlights for me:

Speed tasting!

Speed Tasting: In a cacophonous environment each winery visits your table for just 5 minutes and pours one wine. You can ask questions, Tweet about the wine or do nothing if you wish. It was actually quite fun. First off there is a sense of time constraint and I’m all about this concept because I really don’t need a large swath of time in order to determine if I like a wine or not. By the end of the hour you’ve had 10 different wines from various producers covering various varieties. It’s fast, furious and for me, two wines fit specifically into two different stories I was working on at that time, one for The Hollywood reporter, and one for IntoWine.com.

Diversity: So many different breakout sessions, which feature a diversity of wines, not just the AVAs in the region you are in. So I went to a tasting panel on Greek wines - having been to Crete and written about it I wanted to check out other Greek wines and was able to sample wine I had never tasted like Robola, and Malagousia . I also attended a panel all on Merlot from Duckhorn and Rutherford Hill wineries because I sincerely appreciate this under appreciated grape.

People: I have been writing about wine for magazines (both national and international), newspapers, websites and blogs for well over a decade. But being in the industry you don’t always meet in person other writers, winemakers, PR folks and brand ambassadors, even though we have an on-line relationship, and the WBC is important for just that fact alone.

Should you attend? I say yes if you haven’t ever been to one before. WBC15 will be in the Finger Lakes wine region in New York in August, 2015, a terrific region and a compelling reason to go in its own right as the Finger Lakes are hitting a confident stride of wine production. And no, it’s no like you need to have some wildly successful wine blog, maybe you’re just starting out – a huge strata of people attend. You'll meet and network with others in the business, have lots of dinners and lunches, lots of wine, late nights and get tons of valuable information. Ultimately the wine writing world is always in a state of flux: new wines, new technologies, new regions, new packaging, new marketing. But what never changes is that it’s all about the people – you, the winemakers, other writers and industry folks - your stories, their stories and shared connections, and that was the best takeaway for me.

Rum Running: The Bat from Cuba to Puerto Rico

Everyone knows Bacardi – the Cuban rum company, forced out of Cuba in the 1960, and now based in Puerto Rico, and their signature bat symbol. They are the world leader in rum, making a wide variety of iterations, from the basic white rum, all the way to their newest revelation, the Facundo line of aged sipping rums. They have been at rum making since 1862. These are the top tier of the Bacardi line and their master blender had over 200 blends to work with. 

The Facundo rums are highly allocated and prices range from $45 to $250, so you need to be a rum lover if you’re going to fork over that amount of cash. I had the great fortune to obtain these rums originally for a Father’s Day Gift Guide in The Hollywood Reporter (see that article here: THR) of which I wrote about the Exquisito. But all of these dark rums (the Facundo line also has a white rum called Neo) are wonderful in their own right and I highly recommend them.

Eximo - A 10 year aged smooth rum with a nutty quality,
mocha and toffee, sweet almond and a slight citrus back note.

Exquisito

A blend of rums aged from 7 to 23 year this medium bodied iteration is silky smooth with toasted almonds, sweet oak, a deep resin note and a playful bite.

Paraiso
After laying down for 23 years this is ready for sipping. There is sweet oak, molasses and brown sugar, almond and resin culminating in a silky and earthy rum.

Additionally, if you ever visit Puerto Rico , San Juan specifically, you can tour the Bacardi facility across the bay. The tour is a little theatrical in parts but it’s still worth the time to get a feel for the history of this company, sample some rum and enjoy the island. 

BACARDI 
FACUNDO 

Red Obsession: Wine, Power & The Color of Green

Red Obsession, the first documentary made by Australian filmmakers Warick Ross and David Roach, is narrated by Russell Crowe. “That voice of Maximus lingered with me,” Ross says which is why he tapped the Oscar winner’s resonant husky voice. Born in Hong Kong Ross always had a fascination with China but beyond that he is both a filmmaker and winemaker but as he told me, “The wine films I’d always seen were all about rain, sun, tannins and acids to the score of Vivaldi.” Boring, right? Ross’s approach was different.

“We started off making a film about wine but it became something else; that political and economic power shift from West to East.” Red Obsession, about Bordeaux wine and its unlikely China connection, begins with the basics of France’s legendary vineyards. First planted by the Romans the region has attained mythical status, catapulting the top echelon wines into market values similar to that of a Picasso. That is due to the promotional efforts of the Bordelais; that group of top tier wineries including Château Lafite, Margaux, Latour, and others. And the Bordelais may love red wine, but they adore green money. In the past decade Bordeaux wine prices have risen 1,000%, making it, ironically, too valuable to drink.

I shot this when I visited the Great Wall - a once in a lifetime experience!

Bordeaux long depended on the U.S. and UK as its financial base, but power and greed, so the filmmakers suggest, got the better of the Bordelais and they turned their attention to Shang Hi, Hong Kong and Beijing. Thus the 75-minute film explores the newfound purchasing power of the Chinese. The film suggests there are at least 600 billionaires in China which is currently the largest importer of Bordeaux in the world. “The Chinese had put Château Lafite Rothschild on a pedestal,” admits Ross. “It was selling for $2,400 (USD) a bottle during the height in May/June of 2011.” This re-birth of power and money is expressed in buying the worlds most expensive wine, and as one Chinese collector in the film says, she wants her prestigious wine regardless if she drinks it or not. That kind of comment saddens any wine lover, but also reveals the raw commercial side of wine. Beautifully shot film by Emmy award winning cinematographer Lee Pulbrook, Red Obsession is a lesson on wine, politics, marketing, and the new global wealth. It’s a film for wine folks, students of economics, those fascinated with China, and anyone curious about brand, image and the cultivation of luxury.

I adored my time in China. Everyone needs to visit!

Director Warick Ross’s Top Five Bordeaux Choices (you know, wine for the rest of us!)

Château Grand-Puy Lacoste – “A giant killer, well below First Growth prices. Highly regarded amongst the Bordelais themselves – good value Fifth Growth for what you get.” Around $55.

Château Batailley – “Terrific value and consistently good. The best value of these five.” Around $45

Reserve de la Comtesse – “An elegant second wine from 2nd Growth Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande, ages beautifully.” Around $50

Alter Ego Palmer – “The second wine from the fabulous Château Palmer and made by the charismatic Thomas Duroux. Good value at the moment, well off its highs of 2010.” Around $60.

Vieux Château Certan – A wonderful refined and elegant right bank Bordeaux. Not cheap but consistently rated in the top 10 of the Merlot dominant right bank wines. $140.

(note: The original article, of which this is derived from, I wrote for The Hollywood Reporter published in September, 2013: THE HOLLYWOOD REPORTER