WOW - Wanna Own a Winery?

John Chiarito

As a wine writer, I rarely write about real estate - though I did write a piece for The Hollywood Reporter about the Santa Ynez Valley and spoke with Cheryl Ladd (Charlie’s Angels) about her listed property, but that’s pretty much it. Back in 2011 I first met John Chiarito at his vineyard near Ukiah in Mendocino County and was very impressed with what he was doing. Within a few years after that meeting John was getting out of the wine business much to my dismay as he made stunning wines including Nero D’Avola (see more below). His property and vineyards are now up for sale and they need a new caretaker who will respect what John has started. I decided to include an excerpt about him and Mendocino I originally wrote for the Santa Barbara News-Press. If you may know of someone who wants a winery and vineyard in Mendocino (I’m rather tempted myself) than pass along THIS INFO.

The Chiarito property

Mendo is best known for the highest percentage of organic and biodynamic vineyards anywhere in the entire state. Grapes were originally planted in the late 1800s but Prohibition effectively killed them off and the area turned to apples, walnuts and peach orchards, some of which still produce fruit. The same time that the Mondavi clan planted vineyards in Napa in the mid-1940s, Charlie Barra, the patriarch of the Mendocino wine scene, was busy planting grapes in Ukiah, the most populous city in Mendocino located along Highway 101. Yet what few recall is that along the Russian River from Redwood Valley to Healdsburg in Sonoma, hops were the dominate crop. Small towns like Hopland harvested the hops shipping them by rail to San Francisco where they were dispersed to all parts of the globe. Old hop kilns still exist like the one converted into Milano Winery at the entrance to Hopland. But a new history is being written. Solar panels are present in vineyards, on winery buildings, and by the side of the road. To facilitate biodynamic farming sheep graze the weeds between grapevine rows. Even the plastic green ties that most of us use in our gardens to tie tomato plants to stakes are not allowed. In its place is a natural tying method, used by both Bonterra and Chiarito wineries; pliable willow tree stalks are the new preferred ties as they will eventually return to the earth from whence they came. This doesn’t mean every winery has gone “green,” many still farm with traditional chemicals, but you will not find a greater concentration of farmers who trust the land to work as it has for thousands of years.

At Bonterra's Property

And everything is here, from the massive Bonterra Vineyards who churn out 300,000 cases of inexpensive though effective organic wine, to the majority of small family-run operations with less than 2,000 cases. Some of the best include Philo Ridge, Rivino, Terra Siva and Chiarito who produce wine to rival some of the best in the Golden State. Yes, wine is ubiquitous in California and just because wine is organic doesn’t mean it’s worth buying. But these Mendocino wineries are proving the doubters wrong. Philo Ridge produces terrific Pinot Gris; Rivino produces the less-than-appreciated Cabernet Franc, and the husband and wife team actually both grew up in the Vancouver area only to meet in Mendocino and discover a passion for wine and each other. Terra Siva not only makes wine, but olive oil and produces honey. And then there is John Chiarito whose small vineyard near the minuscule town of Talmadge is producing exceptional Zinfandel. The Italian born Chiarito also produces true Italian varieties like Negroamaro and Nero D’avola, both of which he petitioned TTB to include on their varietal list, thereby becoming the first U.S. winery to get them on a wine label. Then Charito became the first U.S. winery to actually Nero d'Avola on U.S. soil. John exemplifies the spirit of the region: immigrants who honor the land and their parents and grandparents. In the example of Chiarito, the old walnut orchard that was on the property prior to the grapes being planted was pulled up with the exception of a perimeter of trees, which still bear fruit. He is planting tomatoes and figs, not only to honor his grandfather but, as he suggests, a piece of land needs diversity to succeed.

Drinking Planet Earth: Wines for Earth Day

We commemorate Earth Day with words like “sustainability,” and “organic,” “eco-friendly,” and “green.” What do these words mean and do they actually impact what we drink? There are many different third-party certifying agencies when it comes to farming including sustainable, organic, and biodynamic. Is this all hocus pocus and gimmicks? Are the wines better for you? One thing is certain, it’s more expensive and labor intensive to farm using any of the following practices, but that does not insure a better tasting wine. The reduction of harsh chemicals into our food chain is always better than adding more chemicals into our soil and water. Ultimately what you drink is up to you, but here's some drink for thought. (NOTE: The original version of this article first appeared in The Hollywood Reporter)

Sustainable

There are many different certifying agencies including SIP (Sustainability inPractice), and the U.S. Department of Agriculture, all of which aim to achieve the same thing: being a responsible farmer in such a way that your soil, water and neighbors won’t be disaffected down the road. Though there are a myriad number of sustainable programs in the U.S. sustainable certification does not mean an absence of herbicides and pesticides, just a reduction of them. At its best sustainable farming addresses practices on every level, from farm labor to agriculture, from energy conservation to water quality and maintaining natural habitats.

Organic

Organic farming is a step up from sustainable and, strictly speaking with wine there are two distinct organic methods: organic farming (using organic policies), and organic winemaking whereby the process of physically making the wine or spirit employs organic methodology. Therefore you can conceivably have a wine grown with organic grapes, but not be “made” organically. Confusing? Yes. A game-changer? No. Organic is nonetheless a smart idea in that the grapes are treated with fewer chemical applications and the health of soil is better in the long term. Yes organic is trendy and there are loose rules with organic farming, however when it comes to pesticides, herbicides and harmful chemicals, less is best.

Biodynamic

Formally introduced by Rudolph Steiner via a series of lectures in the 1920s, biodynamic is often misunderstood and misinterpreted. Its essence is a combination of sustainable and organic ideas, and goes even further with the farm as a closed loop system, itself a living, vibrant organism. The tenets go back thousands of years, so there is nothing new or mysterious (aside from mixing herbal “teas” in copper pots and stirring it one specific direction, harvesting by the lunar calendar depending on the earth’s gravitational pull, and burying a cow horn with manure in your vineyard). Getting certified biodynamic by Demeter is a life altering experience and only for those that are hard-core. If that type of farming seems ludicrous, consider the thought of what winemaker Frank Hildebrand of Narrow Gate Vineyards in El Dorado County told me as he stood next to his 50-ton manure pile on his property that he uses for mulch. “Traditional farming takes from the soil and gives nothing back. Organic takes from the soil and replaces what it takes out. Biodynamics takes from the soil and gives back more than it takes out.”  

 

Beckman, Santa Barbara - Biodynamic

Grown on their well-known local Purisima Mountain in the newly formed Ballard Canyon AVA in Santa Barbara, they achieved Demeter certification in 2009. But like most biodynamic practitioners, Steve Beckmen’s original vineyard site was not farmed this way and over time as he experimented with small parcels he began to see the difference biodynamic farming made. The 2012 Purisima Mountain Syrah offers a complex array of plum, black berry, bacon fat, cedar and black cherry. Though ripe, it’s not jammy and innocuous, but holds an earthy allure with a mild acidity. Why the move to biodynamic? “It gives you a philosophy to work with and we were no longer reactionary farmers; we are now proactive in our goal to create a balanced vineyard,” he says. ($32, beckmenvineyards.com)

        

Brick House Wines, Oregon - Organic

Owner Doug Tunnell, who served as foreign correspondent for CBS for 17 years, went certified organic status in 1990, originally from Oregon Tilth, though he eventually included biodynamic certification as well. “Organic farming liberated our land from dependence on chemical agriculture,” Tunnell says. His 2012 Brick House Pinot Noir Les Dijonnais is an expression of minerality and bright fruit as the wine was meant to be, and is ripe with tart black cherry, blackberry, plum, red currant and offers a bright lively flavor on the tongue with a back note of earthy maturity. ($52, brickhousewines.com)

Chamisal Vineyards, Edna Valley – Sustainable

Chamisal Vineyards in southern San Luis Obispo County has been producing grapes for over 40 years and has always had a commitment to farm this way. They made it official with SIP (Sustainability in Practice) certification for all of their estate wines, ensuring that environmentally and socially responsible and sustainable practices are maintained throughout the entire business, not just the farming. The 2012 Estate Pinot Noir is a lively traditional Central Coast Pinot, ripe with strawberry, cherry, cedar with a mild acidity running though its core. Easy to drink, uncomplicated and seamlessly pleasant, this is typical of the new style of bright and easy California Pinots. ($40, chamisalvineyards.com)

Goldeneye Winery, Mendocino - Sustainable

Goldeneye’s 200 acres of estate vineyards earned sustainable certification through the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. Goldeneye also designed and built a state-of-the-art winery, the second winery in California to earn LEED Gold environmental certification. Goldeneye is also a Certified Fish Friendly Farmer and has certified 160 acres of non-vineyard land at their Anderson Valley property as FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) Smart Wood Certified forest, which obliges sustainable management of their second growth redwood forest into perpetuity. The 2012 Confluence Vineyard Pinot Noir is a lithe and delicate Pinot Noir with a thread of acidity and mild plum, strawberry, black cherry and rose water. It’s surprisingly even-tempered and complex for a wine so amenable. There’s a judicious use of oak and notes of cedar and sandalwood, and this is a wine that represents the cooler Anderson Valley growing area perfectly. ($82, goldeneyewinery.com)

McIntyre Vineyards, Monterey - Sustainable

McIntyre Vineyards makes Chardonnays from the Santa Lucia Highlands in Monterey County that are not only SIP Certified (Sustainability in Practice), but made from one of the very first SIP Certified vineyards in California and Steve McIntyre was one of the founding members of the SIP Certification process, not to mention he is also certified by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance. His 2012 Estate Block K-1 Chardonnay is classic California; sunny and mellow, smooth and relaxed. There are tropical notes of peach and lime, with a soft viscosity and smooth malolactic fermentation making it slightly buttery without being an oak and butter bomb. A gentle acidity rings the edges and this drinks like sunshine in a glass. ($42, mcintyrevineyards.com)

OM Spirits, Michigan - Organic

It’s not just wine that’s in on the organic bandwagon. OM (Organic Mixology) are a line of organic and gluten free sugarcane based liqueurs sweetened with agave nectar, intended for mixing cocktails or just over ice on their own. They were certified by the United States Department of Agriculture in 2012. Adding to their focus they use non toxic water based inks, glass reduced eco-bottles with labels printed at a carbon neutral wind-powered facility, and use 75% post consumer recycled shipping cases, so there. But the question is, are they any good? The Myer Lemon Ginger is much more subdued than the name might imply; yes there is the hint of citrus and the slow creeping spice of the ginger, but this viscous liquor is mild enough to work with a variety of cocktails while imparting suggestions of flavor, and not hitting you over the head with it. ($30, omspirits.com)

Peju Province Winery, Napa – Organic

In September 2007, Peju earned organic certification for its Rutherford Estate Vineyard from the California Certified Organic Farmers (CCOF). In addition to going organic, and since they are dead center in the Napa Valley, they have added 720 solar panels installed on over 10,000 square feet of the winery's roof, which will generate just under 40% of their power. This 2012 Napa Valley Merlot will remind you why Merlot can be so good. This is a luscious complex wine with black currant, plum, huckleberry, with accents of cola and vanilla. It’s blended with a small amount of Malbec resulting in mild tannins, acidity, and an earthy richness. ($35, peju.com)

Spottswoode Winery, Napa - Organic

For 30 years Spottswoode has been a pioneering winery with their decision to begin farming 100% organically before it was hip to do so. In 1985 they started the organic process and in 1992 Spottswoode became only the second estate vineyard in Napa Valley to earn California Certified Organic Farmer’s (CCOF) certification. CCOF deals with a wide variety of agricultural products including wine grapes, but also citrus, vegetables and grains equaling over 1.5 million certified acres. What today is more commonplace with organic wines owes its lineage to Spottswoode. Their 2013 Sauvignon Blanc is a classic Sauvignon Blanc with notes of fresh cut grass, lemon and lime, peach, pear and a clean acidity. This is a light bright wine with a moderate mouth feel and a perfect refreshing wine for summer. ($36, spottswoode.com)

Quivira Vineyards, Sonoma - Biodynamic

Located in Sonoma’s Dry Creek AVA, Quivira’s vineyard sites have been Demeter certified since 2006, and the folks at Quivera have been actively engaged in restoring the Coho salmon and Steelhead trout spawning stream that winds through the center of their estate. The belief is that a vineyard is only as healthy as other parts of the farm and healthy fish make for better wine because the land itself is a living organism. The 2014 Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc wine explodes with quince, lemon-lime on the nose and weaves into a mineral and acidity balanced wine with passion fruit, grapefruit, almond, young cedar and mango. Radiant and expressive, this is just fun to drink. ($24, Quivirawine.com)

Boozehoundz’s Best of 2014!

With winemaker Aron Weinkauf--Spottswoode Winery & his dog Cashew

In looking back at 2014 Boozehoundz covered everything from various professional wine judging, to wine bloggers, to organic wines, Russian beers, interviews with winemakers and sommeliers and more. To re-cap the best wines and spirits I tasted through in 2014, with a score of 91 points or above (drum roll please), here are some clear winners, so, cheers and keep exploring new wine and spirits. If you’ve tried something awesome drop me a line and let me know. It might make it into a variety of publications I write for including Boozehoundz, The Hollywood Reporter, the largest wine/spirits magazine in China, or someplace else! Since I work for myself I do not write about anything I personally have not vetted and found to be to my picky standards. I get no kickbacks for recommending anything, just the satisfaction of you, the reader, finding something new! And remember, every Tuesday Boozehoundz posts all new info – so sign up for free to get this blog. Here we go…

Qupe 2011 Grenache (91 Points, $35) A stunning biodynamically made wine from San Luis Obispo grapes this offers soft black cherry, rhubarb and pomegranate, blackberry compote, mild oak and spice supported by a mild acidity and enough fruit to compliment your food without overpowering it. (Full Review HERE)

A Sake and cheese pairing I did

Citadelle Gin Reserve Solera 2013 (91 Points, $35) Using a solera method and aged in a combination of American casks, old Cognac casks, and Pineau des Charente casks (a French aperitif), it is softer, holds a slight woodiness and possesses a thicker viscosity. They use over 20 different botanicals as well, creating a multi- layered effect. The nose is clear juniper berry, soft mint and eucalyptus, coriander and dried thyme. (Full review HERE)

2012 Lava Cap Winery Chardonnay (91 Points, $18). Stupidly good and inexpensive and from the unlikeliest of places – El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills, this impressive Chardonnay has terrific acidity and the new French Oak is all caramel, and a subtle smoky element with a touch of citrus. They perform a battonage on it – meaning after the yeast converts the sugars to alcohol, the tiny dead yeast cells are stirred up inside the wine barrel, which adds additional flavor and texture to a wine. I love the mouth feel on this and the slight bite at the end. (Full review HERE)

With asst. winemaker Bobby Donnell at Amici Cellars

Ventura Limoncello Crema (92 Points, $20) is all made by hand (I’ve visited his small production facility in an industrial section of Ventura) with no fake colors or flavors – this is the real deal. Only the top skin of the lemon is peeled which is more concentrated with the citrus oil, then soaked. It’s mixed with sugar and neutral spirits rather than vodka. It's ripe with lemon and lemon rind and stunningly balanced with the alcohol rendering it a smooth, viscous, decadent wonderfully piquant dessert liqueur. (Full review HERE)

The Top Scoring wine for Boozehoundz in 2014 was the stunning Goldeneye 2011 Confluence Vineyard Pinot Noir (93 Points, $80) from the Mendocino’s Anderson Valley is that type of Pinot Noir that makes you realizes why you love, or should love, Pinot Noir, because it has everything, a confluence of a deft acidity, black cherry, raspberry, mild strawberry, a hint of dark cola, spice, judicious oak, and it walks that line between being polite yet mysterious, an in-your-face attitude, and that indescribable intangible that just makes it taste so damn good. (Full review HERE)

Enjoying bubbles at Syncline Winery, Washington State

Thankful for Organic: Healthier Holiday Wines

When planning the first Thanksgiving in 1621 the Pilgrims undoubtedly were unconcerned about mis-matched Martha Stewart place settings, football or pesticides and chemicals in their food. Much has changed about Thanksgiving including a progressive attitude for sourcing organic turkeys, and the side dishes of our national dinner. But even if we cook free-range turkey, eat organic green beans and cranberry’s sweetened with agave nectar, it turns out our wines may not up to the same standards. Here then are a handful of tried and true organic and biodynamic wines, listed in alphabetical order, to consider not just for Thanksgiving foods or left overs, but for any time of year.

(NOTE: The original version of this article first appeared in The Hollywood Reporter)

Benziger 2012 Bella Luna Vineyard Pinot Noir: Biodynamically farmed grapes from Sonoma’s Russian River Valley are used for this delicate and nuanced wine offering soft cherry and strawberry, typical Russian River acidity, framed by oak and vanilla. Benziger was one of the first to transition their vineyard land to sustainable practices. Use this for more mild dishes on your Thanksgiving table, like traditional turkey, cornbread stuffing, sweet potatoes, even fish dishes. ($49, benziger.com)

Bonterra 2012 Zinfandel: Certified organic since 1989 in Mendocino and employing biodynamic practices this Zinfandel is soft and supple with black cherry and pomegranate flavors complimented by new oak and is a lighter red wine without the harsh tannic structure, therefore it will work well with turkey and gravy. Though it is light on the acidity, it offers a slight pepper and some depth and won’t clobber your food. ($16, bonterra.com)

Domaine Carneros 2011 Brut Rosé: Blended from both organically grown Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes from the cool Carneros district, this sparkler offers pinpoint bubbles with notes of cranberry, cherry and pomegranate, so if salmon or duck might be on your table this is a great fit. But also consider fruit based desserts, cheeses and tofurkey, not to mention a proper Thanksgiving toast. ($37, domainecarneros.com)

Ehlers Estate 2013 Sauvignon Blanc: These biodynamically farmed grapes from a single vineyard source give off lemon, grapefruit and lime accents, and a moderate acidity and minerality. It sees no oak so this is a clean, linear expression of Sauvignon Blanc, lacking typical grassy/herb flavors and therefore makes a better fit for appetizers, salads, and casseroles. ($28, ehlersestate.com)

Montinore 2012 Reserve Muller Thurgau: From Oregon’s Willamette Valley this odd grape presents mild lemon-lime, quince, granny smith apple and mineral notes, a slight tart quality and green tea leaves, all from from organic grapes. Ideal with pecan pie, side dishes, light non-sauced pasta, and cheeses. What it lacks in acidity it makes up with mouthfeel. ($24, montinore.com)

Narrow Gate Vineyards 2009 Dunamis: This a GSM blend (Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre) hailing from the Sierra Foothills region where winemaker Frank Hildebrand tends his biodynamically certified vineyard, not far from where gold was discovered in 1848. Cedar, oak and vanilla combine with blackberry, blueberry and raspberry to make a succulent wine ideal for turkey, game and turducken. ($34, narrowgatevineyards.com)

Oakville Ranch 2011 Cabernet Franc: Out of Napa’s Oakville district these certified organic grapes produce a wine full of cedar, vanilla, blueberry, blackberry and a wisp of pomegranate and dried fig, providing a terrific acidity not often found in red wines for heavier dishes like tri-tip, grilled pork, even smoked turkey but won’t overwhelm what’s on your plate. ($110, oakvilleranch.com)

Presidio 2011 Syrah: Santa Barbara’s Doug Braun is the king of biodynamic wine in the county and the very first to be Demeter certified in 2005. His Syrah, from organically grown cool-climate grapes offers deep blackberry, black cherry, huckleberry, pepper and bacon fat with enough acidity to cut through lamb, tri-tip, ham or other possible meats on your table. ($39, presidiowinery.com)

Peju 2009 Cabernet Franc: Napa’s famed Rutherford dust is experienced with these certified organic grapes which offers typical Cabernet Franc qualities like black cherry, a brambly blackberry, framed by judicious 28 months of oak aging and vanilla, with a mature rich, supple fruit core and mild acidity. Great with smoked turkey, or turducken, or forget the food, this makes a fine meal on its own. ($115, peju.com)

Quivera 2013 Sauvignon Blanc: Citrus and lemon meringue are the basis for these biodynamically farmed grapes in Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley, resulting in a mild acidity and a better balance to salads, green bean casseroles, and even ham. The acidity can cut butter, creamed corn and sweet potatoes for example, but still maintains the traditional grassy note of Sauvignon Blanc without a potent tart quality. ($24, quiverawine.com)

Qupe 2012 Grenache: Typical of Grenache this biodynamically farmed fruit from Edna Valley in San Luis Obispo offers soft black cherry, rhubarb and pomegranate, blackberry compote, mild oak and spice framed by a tame acidity and enough fruit to compliment your food without overpowering it. Turkey with plenty of gravy and a glass of this will make you give thanks. ($35, qupe.com)

Salus 2011 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: From the Staglin Family comes this blackberry, blueberry and red currant forward wine combined with proper oak barrel aging and a whisper of cocoa and tobacco, making this a flexible Cabernet with a moderate acidity to handle game, grilled meats and your hearty gravy, and cranberries. ($90, staglinfamily.com)

Tres Sobores 2011 Por Que No?: Commonly known as a “kitchen sink” blend, which does not belie it’s easygoing smooth nature, this is a mix of organically farmed Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s mild blueberry, blackberry a hint of black pepper spice; ideal with all types of food on your Thanksgiving table. ($28, tressabores.com)

Volker Eisele 2012 Gemini: A blend of 80% Sémillon and 20% Sauvignon Blanc, these organic grapes grown in St. Helena are stainless steel fermented, then oak aged making a wine that offers a soft mouthfeel with meringue, apricot, vanilla and apple cider, all soft and luxurious and would be ideal with ham, mashed potatoes and sweet potatoes. ($25, volkereiselefamilyestate.com)

Bio & The Heavy D: Qupe’s Biodynamic Grenache

There are a variety of different types of farmers, like grape growers, including (broadly speaking) those who work with the soil and those who work with chemicals with the soil. Biodynamic farming and winemaking, actually beyond organic, is a confusing subject for a lot of consumers, and even some winemakers I know are vehemently opposed to it. But why? Yes it has elements of an “airy fairy” quality, lunar aspects and some mystical elements, which I’m not getting into here. Of course, if treating the earth you farm with the utmost respect is bad, well, I then clearly don’t understand farming. Anyhoo…organic wine, biodynamic wine – all great ideas that minimize our impact on the land and products we farm. Problem used to be that so many of these wines just weren’t very good. Not any more – the current spate of certified organic and biodynamic wines made in the U.S. is impressive - like the Qupe 2011 Grenache from the Sawyer Lindquist Vineyard. Qupe has long been at the forefront of winemaking in Santa Barbara County and typical of Grenache this offers soft black cherry, rhubarb and pomegranate, blackberry compote, mild oak and spice supported by a mild acidity and enough fruit to compliment your food without overpowering it. Certified Demeter (biodynamic) in 2009 this fruit hails from the Edna Valley in San Louis Obispo and this is truly a stellar wine. So if you think biodynamic is a crock of shit, that’s fine; that is your opinion. But the proof is always in the pudding, er, wine. And this baby rocks. Regardless of your beliefs, this wine is well worth the price tag and delivers more than the actual cost. And that is something rare these days. QUPE

ORIGIN: Edna Valley, San Louis Obispo, California

PRICE: $35 / 750/ml

ALCOHOL: 13.5%

BOOZEHOUNDZ SCORE:  91 POINTS

New Wines--New Zealand: Pinot Poses Promisingly

Tim Atkin explains New Zealand Pinot Noir

I was invited this February to join Master of Wine and wine writer Tim Atkin (a very nice British Man) and other wine industry folks at the New Zealand Consulate General’s house in Los Angeles to sample through a variety of New Zealand Pinot Noirs. You might be thinking - New Zealand makes Pinot Noir? That’s exactly the point. Better known for Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz (called Syrah in the, ahem, Northern Hemisphere), New Zealand is a small country full of surprises. It’s one thing to have Pinot Noir from some random place in New Zealand, and it’s another matter entirely to sample through multiple regions within the country so you get a solid understanding of what the whole place is capable of producing.

I tasted through 18 New Zealand Pinot Noirs:

~6 wines from Martinborough, Nelson, and Waipara (what stood out: 2010 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna, reflective of bright, expressive, more California-ish fruit),

~6 wines from the best known grape region; Marlborough (what stood out: the 2010 Seresin “Leah” with its biodynamically produced grapes;

~6 wines from Central Otago (what stood out: the 2011 Burn Cottage with its smoky quality, and the 2010 Felton Road from Bannockburn) which showed the most fun and unusual characteristics, and a region that Atkin says playfully is populated with "remarkable misfits." The diversity of styles reflects how the subtle and not so subtle regions (and sub-regions) allow for a broad expression of Pinot Noir. Some are earthy, fleshy and rich like California, others present a minerality and quiet finesse, “fine-boned” as Mr. Atkins put it, others were nuanced and subtle, and frankly some tasted like no other Pinot Noir I’ve come across – less fruit and more hard-to-define austere. The point of this exercise, and what I’m advocating here, is to try something new the next time you’re out and about. Should a New Zealand Pinot Noir be offered by the glass or bottle, don’t be timid – try it. There were certain ones which were not my stylistic preference, but none of the wines were inferior. You will discover a new world of Pinot, only if you’re willing to experiment. So get to it, your taste buds will thank you.  NEW ZEALAND WINES