Wine Each Week ~ Priest Ranch 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon

In the years I have been reviewing Cabernet Sauvignon this particular wine has the most cocoa/mocha elements I have ever tasted. To be clear, this is not a sweet wine, nor does it taste like chocolate, but the quiet innuendo of these notes suggests something compelling and interesting for Priest Ranch, which started farming in the 1860s.

Of course there is also what you want in Cabernet - blackberry boysenberry, lingonberry, plum and blueberry, but this underlying dark deep mocha is intriguing. And this is all Cab. The acidity is in check, the tannins are in check, but these dark brooding elements are so noticeable and unlike most other wines you have ever had. Aged in new and used French oak barrels for 20 months. This is a unique one.

5,889 cases

ORIGIN: Napa Valley, California

ALCOHOL: 14.8%

PRICE: $50 /750 ml

SCORE: 91 POINTS

PRIEST RANCH

Wine Each Week – 2017 Experience Cabernet Sauvignon

Napa is known for Cabernet, and expensive Cabernet at that. But so too is the rest of California. From Sonoma to Paso Robles to Temecula, quality Cabernet at a reasonable price is hard to experience. Enter the 2017 Experience Wines Cabernet Sauvignon with 6% Merlot and 2% Malbec added in then aged for 17 months. The result is a wine replete with black cherry, blackberry and blueberry notes that coincide with soft toasted vanilla, light herbal notes, rose water, and a very light menthol. The fruit is more upfront with less darker fruit notes, but this is an excellent quality wine that can easily be yours.

10,000 cases

ORIGIN: Napa Valley, California

ALCOHOL: 14.2%

PRICE: $30 (750ML)

SCORE: 90 POINTS

Experience

Wine Each Week – Pahlmeyer 2016 Napa Valley Red Wine

30 years and Pahlmeyers’ Proprietary Red keeps impressing.

Comprised of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Malbec, this has been a stalwart wine from Napa.

There’s a brambley berry quality about this with notes of boysenberry, lingonberry, blackberry and blueberry. There are also notes of violet and rosewater, bark chocolate with a very subdued, yet judicious, use of oak. Aged for 20 months in mainly new French Oak, this is that kind of wine you can drink on its own without food because it is so complete in and of itself. The tenants are still there but are also subdued and the acidity creeps around the corners of the tongue. There’s a smoothness, a seamlessness that typifies this wine, something you should expect to be elegant, lithe and graceful, and indeed it is.

ORIGIN: Napa, California

ALCOHOL: 15.1%

PRICE: $200 (750ML)

SCORE: 93 POINTS

Pahlmeyer

Wine Each Week – 2017 Frank Family Carneros Chardonnay

The word “summery“ is used often to describe a wine but it seems like a cheap descriptor. What does “summer in a glass” even really mean? Yet it seems to be the perfect word to describe this Frank Family Chardonnay. Bright, lively, warm, vibrant all come to mind. The 2017 is full of white peach, citrus lemon, Kieffer lime, lemon verbena, toasted bread, red apple, and a beautiful acidity that supports the structure of the wine. This iteration sheds some of the more caramelized notes in the past and brings forth an expressive Chardonnay that can easily pair well with an abundance of foods given its acidic nature. Aged for nine months in roughly 1/3^rd percentages of new, once used and twice used French oak barrels, it offers viscosity and grace.

ORIGIN: Carneros, Napa, Sonoma

ALCOHOL: 14.4%

PRICE: $38/ 750ML

SCORE: 90 POINTS

FRANK FAMILY

Wine Each Week – 2017 Tayson Pierce Chardonnay

Though Chardonnay is ubiquitous (and popular) there as many iterations as there are wine drinkers. The 2017 Tayson stands out in a crowded field. Winemaker Jeff Ames (formerly of Opus One) picks at night then whole cluster presses and keeps the fruit and lees in Francois Frères barrels.

This single vineyard wine avoids the typical overt citrus fruit (pineapple, lemon-lime) and shuns the heavy oak and butter treatment, instead making the case for an unusual Chardonnay that threads the needle - everything is uniquely muted, soft, almost shy. There are notes of honeysuckle, crystalized ginger, white peach, Meyer lemon, sweet Madagascar vanilla, and Alpine grass with a delightfully long finish and a supporting acidity.

“The 2017 Chardonnay is a fantastic vintage for us as it marks a new era for our Chardonnay line. The wine is unparalleled to what Chardonnays are typically known for and this vintage is truly something to experience as it caters to both the novice wine drinker as well as the sophisticated aficionado,” says owner Taylor Rothchild. And I agree.

400 Cases

ORIGIN: Napa/Carneros, Calif.

ALCOHOL: 15.3%

PRICE: $65/ 750ML

SCORE: 90 POINTS

TAYSON PIERCE

Wine Each Week – Grgich Hills Estate 2016 Merlot

Grgich Hills is iconic. It is one of Napa’s stalwarts. Since 1999 it has made Merlot and it has always been a consistently excellent wine. Their 2016 iteration veers a little bit, which is a good thing; after all, we should celebrate vintage variation.

It’s dominated by Merlot with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc blended in, and spent 21 months in oak with just 25% of those barrels being new. Therefore the oak is evident, but its judicious use allows more of the terrific Napa fruit to shine through. It offers black cherry, raspberry, blueberry and lingonberry notes along with a savory components of vanilla, rosewood, parsley, mint and charred cedar. This Merlot does not apologize for its distinctive herbal elements but celebrates a kind of wild garden vibe, earthy and piquant, its success is in being slightly different. Pulling fruit from their estate vineyards in both warmer and cooler regions has clearly paid off. If you’re looking for a Merlot with a unique personality, this is it. 3,740 cases

ORIGIN: Napa Valley

ALCOHOL: 14.6%

PRICE: $43/ 750ML

SCORE: 92 POINTS

Grgich Hills

Wine Each Week – 2017 Cherry Pie Tri-County Pinot Noir

In spite of the name, this is not some innocuous sweet Pinot Noir that doubles as dessert. The name in fact was based on the imagery of the label, taken from an oil painting. Cherry Pie is a companion brand to Layer Cake, which also successfully used imagery to build its brand. Fortunately, this wine works. There is mild red raspberry, strawberry, Bing cherry, fairly integrated oak (30% was new wood), soft tannin and finishing with a hint of sweet tobacco. The majority of the fruit is from Monterey, with 21% from Santa Barbara, and 16% from Napa. The blend varies from year to year, the 2016 iteration for example had Sonoma Coast fruit – it also sold for $28. The growing field of terrific Pinot Noir under $25 is quickly growing and the competition is a very good thing for the consumer. Cherry Pie helps raise that bar and this is more than worth its retail price.

ORIGIN: Monterey, Santa Barbara and Napa counties.

ALCOHOL: 14.2%

PRICE: $22.99/ 750ML

SCORE: 92 POINTS

Cherry Pie

Wine Each Week – 2015 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon/Rutherford

There are two kinds of Napa Cabernet. Those that reflect the iconic traditional style of Napa Cab and have been for decades…and everything else. In the last number of years many stalwart Napa producers have gone for over ripe fruit, extracted wines and a homogenized style that offers nothing unique. On the plus side, wineries like Freemark Abbey have retained the iconic Napa style. What sets their 2015 Rutherford Cabernet apart is the sheer seamless-ness of the wine, deftly pulling together oak, fruit, wood, tannin and acidity to create an absolutely indulgent wine. With grapes from three separate Rutherford vineyards the result is classic blueberry, black berry, boysenberry, hints of black cherry, plum, lingonberry and those “dusty” tannins Rutherford is famous for, not to mention subtle signs of mocha and sweet tobacco. Nearly 27 months in barrel (just under 60% was new French oak) has helped create a gorgeous wine, the kind of drinking experience you never rush through, but savor because you don’t want the bottle to end too quickly.

ORIGIN: Rutherford AVA, Napa Valley

ALCOHOL: 14.5%

PRICE: $70/ 750ML

SCORE: 95 POINTS

FREEMARK ABBEY

Wine Each Week: Eighty Four Wines 2017 Gamay Noir

Gamay Noir is a lightweight. Typically this wine (it’s not Pinot Noir) is used for Beaujolais Nouveau a much lighter style of red wine. Gamay Noir is like the stepbrother to Pinot Noir, often more affordable, more fruit driven with softer tannins and acidity and less “Pinot” than Pinot Noir. But in the hands of Doug Shafer and Elias Fernandez of Napa’s iconic Shafer Vineyards, it blossoms into a deeper-lighter red wine. Adding to that - this is the first vintage they made. Pretty damn impressive for a first effort. Just 180 cases were made, a mere 2,160 bottles (minus one for me), so this will disappear soon and if you adore Pinot, then Gamay should be your next consideration. This offers notes of red raspberry, mild strawberry, pomegranate, black cherry, with subtle notes of rose hips, floral accents and what I can only describe as a garden full of wild flowers, supported by delicate sweet vanilla. It’s a lighter, brighter Pinot just in time for your summer red wine drinking.

ORIGIN: Carneros District, Napa Valley, California

ALCOHOL: 14.9%

PRICE: $35/ 750ML

SCORE: 90 POINTS

Eighty Four Wines

Wine Each Week: 2016 Flora Springs Trilogy

Most every major Cabernet Sauvignon producer in Napa has their flagship wine and for Flora Springs, it is Trilogy, which first appeared in 1984. Trilogy has an emphasis on New French Oak and if you love that luxurious, smooth, comforting type of wine, this certainly will play well on your table. The fruit comes from Oakville, St. Helena, and Rutherford so though subtle, it offers some of the best grapes from quality growing regions.

The 2016 iteration offers up rich black berry, blueberry, boysenberry and black cherry notes, along with vanilla, white pepper, cinnamon and subtle notes of amber, sugared almonds and black strap molasses, chaparral and cocoa. Trilogy is comprised mainly of Cabernet Sauvignon, with just 8% Petite Verdot and 6% Malbec. Aged 20 months with mostly French Oak it accentuates what many Napa Cabs strive for, a balance on fruit, food and place.

ORIGIN: Napa Valley, California

ALCOHOL: 13.5%

PRICE: $85/ 750ML

SCORE: 91 POINTS

FLORA SPRINGS

MerlotMe: Time to Start Drinking Your Fu**ing Merlot Again

The self-proclaimed Merlot Month of October gives you permission to start drinking Merlot again. Just like the talented child overshadowed by his elder sibling (Cabernet Sauvignon in case you didn’t follow that), Merlot is getting the attention it deserves and the oft quoted, well-known line from Sideways, may never be uttered again.

Hello My Name Is…

Merlot grapes have been around since, some think, the 1^st Century. Who really knows? What we do know is that some French dude in Bordeaux mentioned Merlot for the first time in 1784, the same year in the US that we ratified the Treaty of Paris, which officially ended the Revolutionary War with Great Britain (I know, right?).

Because of the California Gold Rush and the influx of European immigrants, Merlot cuttings arrived in California sometime in the 1850s but it wasn’t until the late 1980s when planted acreage was increased and Merlot became more significant as a stand alone wine. Now, it’s the second most widely consumed red wine in the US.

2014 Duckhorn Napa Valley Merlot, Napa

Duckhorn is, without a doubt one of the best and most consistent producers of Merlot in California. Period. Part of that is their decades long attention to Merlot when others shunned it. The other part of that is they are meticulous with their fruit, and it shows. This Merlot is that foolproof wine that balances fruit, wood and age into a terrific bottle of wine. It’s the velvety texture that first grabs you as waves of mature blackberry, blueberry and black cherry fruit cascade across your palate. But it’s also the comprehensive acidity, the proper use of oak as an equal player and the tannic structure that allows this wine to be graceful and self-assured.

($52)

2013 St. Supery Napa Valley, Rutherford Estate Vineyard Merlot, Napa

St. Supery opened their Napa doors in 1989, and Merlot has always been a part of the equation. Elegant and refined this is predominately Merlot with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc, aged for 19 months, roughly half of that was in new French oak barrels. What you get is soft inviting fruit, black cherry, blackberry, ripe plum, dried boysenberry with back notes of wild herbs, Madagascar vanilla, campfire smoke, and hints of anise and mocha. The tannins and acidity are properly aligned in this wine making for a wine of balance.

($50)

2015 Shooting Star Merlot, Lake County

Jed Steele has an amazing knack for finding impressive fruit and delivering that fruit in a structured wine that over delivers in quality yet is underpriced. His Merlot, grown in volcanic soils, represents the minerality and richness these soils are known for. You get subdued blueberry, blackberry, plum boysenberry with some cedar and vanilla from the eight months of oak aging, but also fairly tight tannins. This offers mare mature fruit and if far richer that typical Merlots at this price point. This a wine that is so structured and uniform, that the price belies the quality in the glass.

($14)

2015 Chelsea Goldschmidt Dry Creek Valley Merlot, Sonoma

Sonoma’s Dry Creek Valley is bet known for Zinfandel rather than Merlot, yet a few pockets turn out terrific Merlot fruit. This Merlot straddles a line between bright fresh fruit, and undertone of earthiness. Yes there is blackberry, black cherry, blueberry with back notes of plum, sage and wild thyme. But there is also delightful toasted oak giving off vanilla and cedar notes, but this wine has subversive tannins, they seem mild, but they announce themselves mid palate. The acidity rounds this out make for a great food wine. ($19)

2015 J. Lohr Los Osos Merlot, Paso Robles

From the El Pomar district of Paso Robles, the J. Lohr team brings you fresh bright fruit as Paso grapes tends to be more ripe and that’s the case here. The fruit is more berry driven, so you’ll taste blueberry pie, boysenberry cobbler, back notes of black cherry, blackberry with mild tannins and mild acidity. The oak is evident but not powerful and it lays a solid framework for the fruit and for an easy drinking Merlot. ($15)

I Like Mike - Nazis, Communists & Chardonnay

For a younger generation of wine drinkers raised on pop-stars, actors and athletes turned winery owners, the name Mike Grgich might not mean much.  Bummer, dude. Mike was one of the pioneers of the California wine industry and everyone, from an older generation to the younger generation has probably already enjoyed his wine, at some point.

A new book, A Glass Full of Miracles documents the life of Mike Grgich’s life from a relatively poor family in Croatia to dealing with the Nazi invasion of the region in World War II, to the subsequent Communist rule after Europe was divided up. Mike Grgich is not his given name, it’s Miljenko Grgich – but we in America know him as Mike, half of the Grgich Hills Estate in Napa. And this immigrant came to America and made his mark, in a huge way, having made the Chardonnay that beat out and beat up other French Chardonnay in the famed Judgment of Paris in 1976, which effectively put California wines on the world wine map. (Google it).

What's refreshing about this book is that it is clearly written in Miljenko’s own voice. Yes it has been co-authored, but regardless you get the feel that these are Mike's words - that is to say this is not a polished work – and in some way that’s exactly how it should be – Mike telling Mike’s story, flaws and all. There are many tales of life and hardship, family and joy and when Mike was finally able to leave Croatia to come to the US (via Canada) he had $32 US dollars hidden in the sole of his shoe. Has that ever happened to you? I’m guessing not. He was undeterred. "I had gotten an old suitcase, a cheap one made of cardboard,” he writes. “I packed it with my most important things along a few clothes and 15 textbooks about wine and viticulture. These, I knew, would be my way to Paradise." And no, Paradise didn’t come easy, but it did come. In our current time-obsessed age when we demand immediate satisfaction and instant validation, this story tells you that the world actually doesn’t work that way – it is a slow, sometime painful progression, a cat and mouse game with the future. I found it interesting and engaging that he went through, like many others of the time, so many different experiences before during and after the war, something we here in America don't understand as much and those experiences of necessity helped shape his outlook, his progressive style of winemaking and his humility. As you read this very detailed book you begin to realize the incredible joy of an immigrant having a dream and making that dream come true in this country. A Glass Full of Miracles chronicles years of dedication and hard work, penny pinching, going without, worry, fear, death and promises, faith and leaving an indelible mark. The end result is a story of Miljenko’s over 93 years on Planet Earth, a story that everyone can be inspired by. Cheers, Miljenko!

A Glass Full of Miracles

Hardback, 418 pages, $40

Dozens of photographs

Available: Violettapress.com, Amazon.com, Grgich.com

Straighten Up and Fly Right

Classic Bordeaux blends hailing from Napa are not uncommon; what is uncommon is to find one that truly represents a traditional blend, but also promises compatibility with food and, quite simply, is a pleasure to drink. The 2012 Canard Vineyard Vintner’s Blend nails it. As a wine writer I have written about Canard Vineyard in The Hollywood Reporter; as a wine buyer I carry their Reserve Cabernet in my wine department at PierreLafond Market in Montecito, so yes, I am a fan. Their Vintner’s Blend is comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon (42%), Merlot (36%), Cabernet Franc (21%) and Petit Verdot (1%). Grown in Calistoga and aged 19 months in both new and neutral French oak, the result is a wine that is seamless and graceful with nothing out of place, sort of like a restrained opulence. The nose offers typical blackberry, blueberry and dark cherry hints, but it hits the palate with soft tannins and lingers in the mid palate with cassis, black cherry, cedar and a wisp of mocha and mint. The under current of acidity allows tremendous food pairing options and the oak treatment is judicious meaning this wine will not overpower your meal. Canard turned out just 517 cases of this wine, which not only provides a stellar value at this price, but allows you bragging rights since Canard wines are not easy to get your hands on.

ORIGIN: Napa, California

PRICE: $45/ 750ML

ALCOHOL: 14.9%

BOOZEHOUNDZ SCORE:  92 POINTS

Salt Peter: Mondavi & Me

My pix of Peter Mondavi at the Charles Krug Winery

Peter Mondavi passed away this week at the age of 101. You might think you know him, but you’re probably thinking of Robert Mondavi - the champion of California wine and founder of Mondavi Winery. Peter, his brother, helmed Charles Krug Winery, also in Napa, and was and the quieter half of the Mondavi boys. I met with Peter Mondavi when he was 96 for an article for Decanter Magazine on the 150th anniversary of the Charles Krug Winery. (read that article HERE)

Robert Mondavi always received most of the attention – he’s the flamboyant, energetic and electrifying one. But Peter, the salt of the earth kind of guy, had his accomplishments too, and for those who are not blatant extroverts, Peter’s successes, while under the radar, forever changed the wine industry. At Charles Krug Peter focused on innovation - was the first to bring French Oak barrels to Napa Valley as well as cold fermentation techniques, and he constantly blind tasted his competitors’ wines. “It keeps your production staff on the ball,” he told me.

Robert and Peter started their wine careers together in 1944 when they persuaded their father to buy the Charles Krug Winery, but their working relationship soured and there were frequent clashes over wine and marketing. Peter stayed on at Krug, while Robert started the Robert Mondavi Winery. In his autobiography Robert records how he left the family business in 1965 after a fist fight with Peter over a fur coat he bought for a visit to the Kennedy White House. The two were not reconciled until 2005, 40 years later. I asked Peter about it; he fumbled, diverted attention to my question then quietly said: “We were at his (Robert’s) home a few weeks before he passed, and of course he’d had his stroke, so he couldn’t speak. He looked good, he looked relaxed and he managed to eat, so that was satisfying to me.” The brothers were having yearly Christmas gatherings for several years prior to Robert’s death. “It was tough to see him in poor health but at our age you learn to accept some of those things. With all the people in the world, well, we’re all different. We’d put aside our differences years ago.” But I saw in Peter’s eye that in spite of everything, this was still a very sensitive issue. I have no idea why and I will not speculate here. What I understood from Peter is that they made up – in whatever manner and form that took shape. Wine is about land, marketing and farming but it is also about people and these people were some of the founders of the American wine industry – two divergent men who shared the same name but it seems little else.

“This idea of being popular, it didn’t phase me,” Peter told me. “Robert was entirely different from me, he was the promoter and he got carried away with his ego. He was a spender, but he made money too. I’m the quiet one, but that’s my nature,” he said in the sterile confines of the Charles Krug Winery on the second floor. Perhaps that low-key approach helped Peter reach 101. But it was partly the fact that an outside staircase behind the building he walked up and down several times each day to reach his office provided exercise. When I visited I was ushered into an elevator. I would have much preferred the stairs, too. “I keep busy, have reasonable stamina, and I learned that if you don’t keep up a little exercise on a daily basis, you wear yourself out. I do 10 minutes daily and I still drink wine every night, mostly Cabernet.” No surprise there.

“Fundamentally, the Charles Krug style is rooted in Dad’s decades of winemaking wisdom,” Peter Mondavi Jr. told me about his father. “We have gotten considerably more sophisticated and refined over the years, especially when it comes to planting our vineyards. We are very sensitive to the soil, rootstock requirements and the proper representation of the various clones available. Our wines remain balanced and destined for the dining table.”

Both Peter and Robert have passed on and I hope they share a glass of wine together at some other dining table, as we do, to honor our own family, our own accomplishments and successes, and even just the end of another day. Peter will be missed. Robert still is. But make no mistake – both of the Mondavi boys have had an indelible influence on American wine. If nothing else, raise a glass and toast to that.

Sipping Summer: Sauvignon Blancs to Beat Back the Heat

With the temps heating up we all need to chill, and the ubiquitous and stylistically diverse Sauvignon Blanc can meet a variety of taste profiles and price points. Sauvignon Blanc traces its origins, so far as we know, to France specifically the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. At some point in the 18th century, Sauvignon Blanc paired with Cabernet Franc to become the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon. So if Cab is your go-to red then Sauvignon Blanc might be your go-to white. I’ve assembled 15 Sauvignon Blancs, from New Zealand to Napa, Santa Barbara to Sancerre that are as bright, happy and refreshing as summer in a glass. (NOTE: The original version of this article first appeared in The Hollywood Reporter)

Amici Cellars 2013 Spring Mountain Sauvignon Blanc

Napa is no stranger to great wines and this 100% barrel fermented (20% new French Oak) Sauvignon Blanc beaks the traditional mold by judiciously using oak barrels. The result is a wine with typical lemon-lime, honeyed orange blossom aromas but is reinforced with notes of passion fruit, pineapple, minerality, sweet resin and a wisp of vanilla. Rich and expressive, this unique Sauvignon Blanc is impressive now but will continue to age as there is a weightiness and maturity to this wine. The vineyard source from the Spring Mountain appellation sits far above the valley floor at an elevation of 1,200 feet. ($40, Amicicellars.com)

Brander 2014 Mesa Verde Sauvignon Blanc

Fred Brander is the undisputed king of Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc having first made the wine 40 years ago. All his grapes are estate grown and he produces half a dozen iterations. This version is nearly flawless; a beautiful cornucopia of white peach, honeysuckle, nectarine, passion fruit, sweet grass and honey. The acidity is ideally suited and the fruit and mouth feel bounce around the tongue like a kid on a trampoline on a summer day. Made in stainless steel but with more maceration time - the contact between the juice and the crushed skins - it offers a noticeable palette weight and you understand how good Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc can be. ($22, brander.com)

Chateau Montelena 2014 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Known for Chardonnay (the film Bottle Shock chronicled Montelena’s rise to power), they have a small parcel of Sauvignon Blanc that doesn’t get much attention since it’s second fiddle here. Yet this is a delightful wine playing both sides of the fence; the bright acidity and tropical notes of pineapple, lemon custard since the majority of the wine was done in stainless steel, and the more mature aspect - a small portion fermented in barrel which adds a touch of the vanilla, cedar and orange. There’s an ever so slight banana note in the back and it shows the power of a major winery with it’s under the radar offerings. ($35, montelena.com)

Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre 2014

Any winery that has been in business since 1790 is doing something correct and the Sancerre region of France’s Loire Valley has been growing Sauvignon Blanc since the U.S. was fresh off the Civil War. Domaine de la Perrière is a 9th generation family owned and managed winery. Typical of Sancerre, the birthplace of Sauvignon Blanc, this is a more mineral driven wine with white peach, nectarine, almond, passion fruit and a balanced acidity making this an ideal white wine with food. It is soft, rich and clean without anything overt and shows exactly why Sancerre excels at this grape. ($26, pasternakwine.com)

Duckhorn Vineyards 2012 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

Just when you thought Sauvignon Blanc couldn’t get any more different here comes a late harvest iteration, meaning the grapes were left long on the vine and allowed to desiccate, thereby consolidating their sugars. Made from grapes in Sonoma, this dessert wine is not made in successive vintages but only when the timing is right. The result is a luscious viscous wine with notes of honey, candied apricot, mango, toasted sugared almonds, and caramelized nectarine. It has weight and depth typical of dessert wines but the sugar is not overpowering and simplistic. It is a sensuous reminder that Sauvignon Blanc can be this good. ($45, Duckhornvineyards.com)

Ehlers Estate 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

This Napa Valley winery located just north of St. Helena was founded in 1886, but Sauvignon Blanc only appeared on the property in the mid 1990s. All their fruit is made from certified organic grapes - they received their organic certification in 2008 - and this Sauvignon Blanc is all lemon, peach, pear, nectarine, grapefruit, floral notes and a bright acidity from an ideal growing season. More restrained and less herbal and grassy than other Sauvignon Blancs, this is a low-key intro to the grape. ($28, ehlersestate.com)

Giesen 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

New Zealand is not just the Lord of the Rings territory, it’s Sauvignon Blanc land, but surprisingly it was only planted there in 1973 and it’s rise to international prestige shows how suited this grape is to this island. Giesen crafts a blend using 60 vineyards spread across the length and breadth of Marlborough’s famed Wairau Valley. The 2014 vintage also has a small selection of fruit from the more southern Awatere Valley. On the nose there is immediate lemon verbena and sweet grass and typical of the New Zealand style these is herbaceous, grassy with tart mango and lemon meringue and an acidity that calls out for food. It’s almost hard to believe you can find a wine of this caliber at this price. ($14, giesen.co.nz)

Jackson Estate 2013 Stitch Sauvignon Blanc 

Not to be out done by their brethren Jackson Estate, also from the Wairau Valley in New Zealand, traces their English heritage back to the 1840s when they first came to New Zealand. Located about a four-hour drive apart from Giesen this Southern Hemisphere wine expresses plum, lychee, mango, lemon-lime and pineapple, which dominate this clean pure expression of Sauvignon Blanc. There are back notes minerality and acidity rounding out the whole. Aged minimally on the lees - expired yeast cells - gives this a wine a slight viscosity. ($21, jacksonestate.co.nz)

J. Christopher 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

From Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley, better known for Pinot Noir, comes this softer version of Sauvignon Blanc patterned after France’s Loire Valley. There’s lime, lemon, grapefruit and a resin like maturity with more of a mineral note and almond but less overt fruit. This ends up tasting less sweet than other versions you might encounter, yet still feels slightly richer with a noticeable acidity and rounder weight in the mouth. ($20, jchristopherwines.com)

Justin 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

It’s no secret that Justin Winery in Paso Robles has long been one of the leaders of this still up-and-coming wine region in spite of their original plantings being in 1981. But original owner Justin Baldwin knew this region would be best for the traditional Bordeaux varieties including Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2014 Sauvignon Blanc is crisp with tropical notes of lemon-lime, grapefruit, green apple, guava and white peach. Since there was no malo-lactic fermentation this is a light, bright, clean iteration of Sauvignon Blanc, which feels like a perfect summer day in your glass. ($14, justinwine.com)

Kriselle Cellars 2014 Sauvignon Banc

Oregon is best known for the Willamette Valley where Pinot Noir reigns, but the southwestern portion of the state is home to a number of diverse wineries like the Rogue Valley where Kriselle Cellars turns out this terrific little number. It’s different that California in that there is more caramelized pineapple and passion fruit and an upfront limoncello vibe, with a wonderfully long finish. The acidity is full but not piercing, the wine is smooth but still vibrant. Being so close to the Rogue River the noticeable minerality speaks volumes and rounds out the wine making this unique, and a fantastic value for a wine so complex. ($21, krisellecellars.com)

Lula Cellars 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

Located in the teeny tiny town of Philo in the Anderson Valley in Mendocino, the 2014 vintage marks the first Sauvignon Blanc ever released by Lula Cellars. This outstanding wine comes from grapes grown at nearly 2,500-feet elevation ridge top and close proximity to the Pacific coast lending to warm days and cool nights – ideal climate conditions for grape growing. This version offers grapefruit, fig, honeydew, resin, quince and a thread of minerality with a long finish and cleansing acidity. ($22, lulacellers.com)

Ram’s Gate 2014 Carneros Sauvignon Blanc

The Sauvignon Blancs from Rams Gate in Carneros almost defy description. They are herbaceous with lemon-lime, grapefruit, meringue but also vanilla, sweet grass, mango, peach and pear and a moderate mouth feel and buoyant acidity. They are the perfect balance, striking a middle ground that can placate anyone. In part this is because they are stainless steel fermented but then aged on the lees for nine months so there is a minimal sense of body weight and oak treatment without loosing Sauvignon Blancs inherent quality. ($28, ramsgatewinery.com)

Sonoma Loeb 2013 Sonoma County

This winery is known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and in fact 2013 was their first ever Sauvignon Blanc but out of the gate they’re knocking it out of the park. Lively and crisp with a mild but noticeable acidity, this offers honeysuckle, lemon-lime, pear and fig, green apple and candied melon. The fruit comes from two distinct Sonoma regions, the Russian River Valley and the Alexander Valley. A partial fermentation in French oak and stainless steel tanks means that you get almond and cedar notes but you don’t lose the tropical flavors like lemon zest, peach and apple typically associated with Sauvignon Blanc. ($18, Sonoma-loeb.com)

Vogelzang Reserve 2012

Though most Sauvignon Blancs are not oaked, some are and to find a superior version of that is tough as usually the oak obliterates the classic fruit. From Santa Barbara’s warmest growing region called Happy Canyon, this Sauvignon Blanc from grape growers turned winery, is a decadent feel of clover honey, tangerine, nectarine, green tea, sweet resin, orange blossom and caramel. The acidity is more muted and it was fermented in neutral French Oak and aged for eight months, using natural yeasts therefore you get a viscosity most wines wish they had. ($32, vogelzangvineyard.com)

 

New Year’s Resolution: 12 Months – 12 Cabernets

With every year that passes we set out new goals, new challenges and new experiences for ourselves. But often that doesn’t translate to our wine habits, which can get old and tired. So for Cabernet Sauvignon lovers, here’s a road map for a new Cabernet Sauvignon to try each month from various places, each with its own unique quality and character; a road map that will entice your senses and open you to new wines you may never have considered. (NOTE: The original holiday version of this article was published in The Hollywood Reporter-DEC/2014)

Amici Cellars 2011 Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon: From Calistoga, winemaker Joel Aiken has a pedigree worth toasting. He made the BV Georges de Latour, one of Napa’s most iconic wines for a quarter century. Now he crafts killer Cabernets from choice vineyard sites around the Napa Valley. Once poured you’ll find flavors reminiscent of violets, oak and vanilla, blackberry and blueberry. This is a smooth drinking wine that makes you realize how approachable a high end Cabernet can be, without all the fussy tannins and aging time. ($125, amicicellars.com)

Barons de Rothschild Lafite Reserve Speciale Pauillac 2010: Bordeaux is not Napa. That might seem obvious, but many people expect Bordeaux to drink like Napa Cab. The differences in this wine are obvious from the subtle and nuanced flavors to the berry notes of black cherry, and blackberry. However the earthiness, acidity and quiet nature of Bordeaux is a counterpoint to aggressive American Cabernet’s. This is a terrific example of reasonably priced Bordeaux, and a wine meant to work with food. ($49.99, finewinehouse.com)

Beaulieu Vineyards 2009 Georges de Latour Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon: Long used as the go-to juice for the Emmy Awards Governor’s Ball and a benchmark of Napa Cabernet since 1936, this BV is as smooth and suave as George Clooney himself. There is upfront acidity, black cherry, huckleberry, blackberry seamless oak and vanilla and a textural weight all delivered with a silky and smooth wine that makes you wonder why all wine can’t be this tranquil and creamy. ($80, bvwines.com)

Clos Pegase 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon: With renowned architect Michael Graves behind the design of this Napa winery facility, their Cabernet should be just as world class, and it is. Ready to drink now this 2011 Cabernet is very accessible for everyone and presents black cherry, rhubarb, plum, blueberry, mild acidity and though still a young wine, it is nonetheless quite structured and amiable for your dinner table. ($50, clospegase.com)

Frank Family 2012 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon: Though owner Rich Frank is producer on the hit TV show Royal Pains (he was former Chairman of Walt Disney TV) he also produces wine from his northern Napa Valley property. This lithe, supple wine is replete with mild notes of blackberry, blueberry, cedar, and black cherry, balanced and structured with soft delectable oak, acidity and tannins showing the firm control of a veteran producer. ($50, frankfamilyvineyards.com)

Hourglass Vineyards 2012 Blueline Estate Cabernet Sauvignon: Like a classic timepiece this wine, grown on the slopes of the Mayacamas Mountains, exudes black cherry, lavender, blackberry, cedar, soft but noticeable minerality and a touch of caramel. The tannic structure is evident but not overwhelming and a brief decanting will enhance the floral aromas. Easy to drink, it might be gone in a few minutes if you’re not careful. ($125, hourglasswines.com)

Jordan 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon: Though Napa gets most of the Cabernet attention, Sonoma too has its own choice spots in which to make excellent Cabernet. Served at several of the Academy Award Governor’s Balls in the 1990s and served at the White House in 1988, this current iteration is all cassis, bright cherry, blueberry, with a mild acidity and oak program balanced along with tame tannins which makes this an easy drinking wine with a bit of heft. ($53, jordanwinery.com)

Justin Vineyards 2011 Isosceles: Paso Robles has long been a producer of Cabernet and it is this wine that actually put this region on the map. The current vintage celebrates its 25th anniversary of this now iconic wine with rustic dark red fruits like rich deep black cherry, black currant and ripe blueberry. The judicious use of oak is tempered by a befitting acidity and an easy drinking quality. ($70, justinwine.com)

Kimmel Vineyards 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon: From Mendocino comes this delightful wine full of rhubarb, blackberry and dusty black cherry with a touch of oak, mild acidity and mild tannins. Owner Jim Kimmel (not Jimmy Kimmel) employs certified sustainable growing practices, which shows that great wine can be made in a responsible, yet tasty way. There is a nose of sandalwood, cedar, cassis, black cherry, dark chocolate and a whisper of dark spice. ($48, kimmelvineyards.com)

Mastroserio Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon: When gold was discovered in El Dorado County in the Sierra Foothills in 1848 signaling the gold rush, wine was not in the mix. But when the gold ran out, pioneer-entrepreneurs planted grapes. One of the better Cabs to come from this region is this lush rich Cab heavier on its barrel fermentation program, which results in lots of cedar, resin, blackberry, black cherry and dried chervil with a surprisingly buoyant acidity. ($50, mastroseriowinery.com)                        

 

Pepper Bridge 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon: Walla Walla Washington is the source of the fruit for this earthy Cabernet with plenty of rustic cherry and blackberry, blueberry fruit, minimal tobacco and aged oak - a combination of new and used French oak to be precise. 2011 was a cooler season in the state therefore there is less bright crisp fruit and more of a dense and dark nature to this wine for those who crave a more mysterious and brooding wine. ($60, pepperbridge.com)

Spottswoode 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon: One of Napa’s premier under the radar producers, Spottswoode goes about quietly making first-rate wine. Their Cabernet opens with rich black cherry and a nose of oak and vanilla and a slight cocoa, but is rewarded with decanting time to reveal, cedar and ripe blueberry, roasted oak and the flavors smooth out with a mature ripe red fruit note, changing the complexity to a velvety, deep berry. ($150, spottswoode.com)