Wine Each Week ~ ZD 2019 Sauvignon Blanc

A Sauv is born. Yep, ZD Wines never had a Sauvignon Blanc in their portfolio, but they do now. This inaugural offering is a far cry from the grassy, herbaceous iterations out there, something ZD wanted to keep away from. Instead, this is light, refreshing and crisp - a bit of cut grass but mainly lemon zest, lime Kiefer, green apple, a bit of honeysuckle, white peach and nectarine. That’s balanced against a light minerality and pleasant viscosity. It really reflects what Napa does well with Sauvignon Blanc, which is bright clean fruit. The grapes were hand harvested at night to keep the grapes cool, and aging was a combo of stainless steel, American oak barrels and concrete tanks, and no ML. The result is a wine to be proud of. ORIGIN: Napa Valley ALCOHOL: 13.5% PRICE: $27 /750 ml SCORE: 90 POINTS ZD WINES

Wine Each Week- 2018 Chateau Tour de Mirambeau, Despagne White

France is known for its many wine regions (specifically Bordeaux and Burgundy) but it has one which is almost unknown just outside of the city of Bordeaux. Entre-deux-Mers is the place for dry white wine. In the 1950s through the 1970s Entre-deux-Mers was pretty much avoided as it was considered cheap bulk wine. That Mirambeau championed the resurgence of the region starting in the 1980s has helped place the region again on the map, this time with much better results. Their Despagne white is a blend of 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 17% Semillon and 3% Muscadelle and is all stainless steel fermented, which allows for a crispness. It presents bright grapefruit, lemon verbena, white peach, a slight guava, spring wildflowers as well as a bold acidity, making food pairing easy.

You can visit the winery itself when near Bordeaux, or get a taste of the entire Entre-deux-Mers region if you visit the “Syndicat,” a consortium of growers whose wines are collectively housed in a re-purposed barn from 1512 (original timbers are used throughout the building and is the backdrop for the above photo) that belonged to the Abbey of La Sauve Majeure next door. Here you can sample the exciting dry white wines that Bordeaux should also be known for. Specifically, under French law, wines from Entre-deux-Mers must contain a minimum of two grapes so you’ll find white wines unlike other Bordeaux regions. 4 Euro gets you three wines to taste, or better yet, spend just 8 Euro and that includes access to the very cool ruins of the Abbey.

ORIGIN: Entre-deux-Mers, Bordeaux, France

ALCOHOL: 13.5%

PRICE: $10/ 750ML

SCORE: 90 POINTS

Www.vins-entre-deux-mers.com

Wine Each Week: Duckhorn 2018 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley

1982. Napa. Duckhorn debuts its Sauvignon Blanc. Reality check - AVA’s only came about a year earlier. Back then Sauv Blanc wasn’t much of a popular wine but Duckhorn dedicated themselves to planting it.  Nearly four decades later this is one of the most consistent Sauvignon Blancs to come out of Napa. It presents bright lemon zest, lime kefir, light honeysuckle, quince, mango, white peach and a bright acidity that dances on the tongue. Blended with 15% Sémillon part of the success is that winemaker Renee Ary blends both warmer and cooler vineyard sites together to offer a much more balanced approach to Sauvignon Blanc. I’ve had well over 15 vintages of this wine and it never fails to impress.

ORIGIN: Napa Valley, California

ALCOHOL: 13.5%

PRICE: $30/ 750ML

SCORE: 91 POINTS

Duckhorn

Wine Each Week: Spottswoode 2017 Sauvignon Blanc

Not to be overly poetic, but the nose on Spottswoode Sauvignon Blanc immediately conjured an image of a grandma line drying laundry on a bright spring day while eating Pepperidge Farm Milano’s. Perhaps that’s a little hyperbole, but this wine is unabashedly fresh, buoyant. 

Starting with aromas of fresh cut lemons and limes, on the palate there is quince, lemon zest, lime, white peach, nectarine, a wee bit of vanilla and slight sweet resin. The floral aromatics make this sing. In essence this is exactly what you want a wine to do – to invite you someplace and whereas your invitation might look different, this wine does indeed transport you.

ORIGIN: Napa and Sonoma, California

PRICE: $42/ 750ML

ALCOHOL: 13.5%

SCORE: 94 POINTS

Spottswoode

Summer in Winter – Imagining Sauvignon Blanc

It’s nearing Thanksgiving here in Santa Barbara where I live. And no, it’s not really winter here, nor even cold. In Santa Barbara winter is merely like a cool summer, but regardless in the cooler months people inexplicably drink more red wine. But hold on…white wine is still ideal for winter, too. To prove my point the 2015 Wow Oui (wow-wee) from Imagery Estate Winery in Glen Ellen is, literally, like summer in your glass. The bright, vivacious, crisp and fresh Sauvignon Blanc with a touch of Muscat (18%) and a wee bit of Viognier (3%) makes this not only a surprise, but also a pretty damn good wine made by Joe Benziger. Lemon-lime, tangerine, hibiscus, watermelon, floral notes of rose and lavender all represent. This is a very balanced wine with food friendly acidity - ideal with a chili-lime seasoning on chicken, fish or tofu. Plus, the label art was done by Penelope Gottlieb of…Santa Barbara! Just over 1,000 cases were made so there’s a good chance you can still find some on their site as they are not available nationally (bummer). So, perk up and pucker up ‘cause this wow is yes.

ORIGIN: Pine Mountain/Cloverdale Peak, California

PRICE: $27/ 750ML

ALCOHOL: 14.1%

BOOZEHOUNDZ SCORE:  89 POINTS

Sipping Summer: Sauvignon Blancs to Beat Back the Heat

With the temps heating up we all need to chill, and the ubiquitous and stylistically diverse Sauvignon Blanc can meet a variety of taste profiles and price points. Sauvignon Blanc traces its origins, so far as we know, to France specifically the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. At some point in the 18th century, Sauvignon Blanc paired with Cabernet Franc to become the parents of Cabernet Sauvignon. So if Cab is your go-to red then Sauvignon Blanc might be your go-to white. I’ve assembled 15 Sauvignon Blancs, from New Zealand to Napa, Santa Barbara to Sancerre that are as bright, happy and refreshing as summer in a glass. (NOTE: The original version of this article first appeared in The Hollywood Reporter)

Amici Cellars 2013 Spring Mountain Sauvignon Blanc

Napa is no stranger to great wines and this 100% barrel fermented (20% new French Oak) Sauvignon Blanc beaks the traditional mold by judiciously using oak barrels. The result is a wine with typical lemon-lime, honeyed orange blossom aromas but is reinforced with notes of passion fruit, pineapple, minerality, sweet resin and a wisp of vanilla. Rich and expressive, this unique Sauvignon Blanc is impressive now but will continue to age as there is a weightiness and maturity to this wine. The vineyard source from the Spring Mountain appellation sits far above the valley floor at an elevation of 1,200 feet. ($40, Amicicellars.com)

Brander 2014 Mesa Verde Sauvignon Blanc

Fred Brander is the undisputed king of Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc having first made the wine 40 years ago. All his grapes are estate grown and he produces half a dozen iterations. This version is nearly flawless; a beautiful cornucopia of white peach, honeysuckle, nectarine, passion fruit, sweet grass and honey. The acidity is ideally suited and the fruit and mouth feel bounce around the tongue like a kid on a trampoline on a summer day. Made in stainless steel but with more maceration time - the contact between the juice and the crushed skins - it offers a noticeable palette weight and you understand how good Santa Barbara Sauvignon Blanc can be. ($22, brander.com)

Chateau Montelena 2014 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc

Known for Chardonnay (the film Bottle Shock chronicled Montelena’s rise to power), they have a small parcel of Sauvignon Blanc that doesn’t get much attention since it’s second fiddle here. Yet this is a delightful wine playing both sides of the fence; the bright acidity and tropical notes of pineapple, lemon custard since the majority of the wine was done in stainless steel, and the more mature aspect - a small portion fermented in barrel which adds a touch of the vanilla, cedar and orange. There’s an ever so slight banana note in the back and it shows the power of a major winery with it’s under the radar offerings. ($35, montelena.com)

Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre 2014

Any winery that has been in business since 1790 is doing something correct and the Sancerre region of France’s Loire Valley has been growing Sauvignon Blanc since the U.S. was fresh off the Civil War. Domaine de la Perrière is a 9th generation family owned and managed winery. Typical of Sancerre, the birthplace of Sauvignon Blanc, this is a more mineral driven wine with white peach, nectarine, almond, passion fruit and a balanced acidity making this an ideal white wine with food. It is soft, rich and clean without anything overt and shows exactly why Sancerre excels at this grape. ($26, pasternakwine.com)

Duckhorn Vineyards 2012 Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc

Just when you thought Sauvignon Blanc couldn’t get any more different here comes a late harvest iteration, meaning the grapes were left long on the vine and allowed to desiccate, thereby consolidating their sugars. Made from grapes in Sonoma, this dessert wine is not made in successive vintages but only when the timing is right. The result is a luscious viscous wine with notes of honey, candied apricot, mango, toasted sugared almonds, and caramelized nectarine. It has weight and depth typical of dessert wines but the sugar is not overpowering and simplistic. It is a sensuous reminder that Sauvignon Blanc can be this good. ($45, Duckhornvineyards.com)

Ehlers Estate 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

This Napa Valley winery located just north of St. Helena was founded in 1886, but Sauvignon Blanc only appeared on the property in the mid 1990s. All their fruit is made from certified organic grapes - they received their organic certification in 2008 - and this Sauvignon Blanc is all lemon, peach, pear, nectarine, grapefruit, floral notes and a bright acidity from an ideal growing season. More restrained and less herbal and grassy than other Sauvignon Blancs, this is a low-key intro to the grape. ($28, ehlersestate.com)

Giesen 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

New Zealand is not just the Lord of the Rings territory, it’s Sauvignon Blanc land, but surprisingly it was only planted there in 1973 and it’s rise to international prestige shows how suited this grape is to this island. Giesen crafts a blend using 60 vineyards spread across the length and breadth of Marlborough’s famed Wairau Valley. The 2014 vintage also has a small selection of fruit from the more southern Awatere Valley. On the nose there is immediate lemon verbena and sweet grass and typical of the New Zealand style these is herbaceous, grassy with tart mango and lemon meringue and an acidity that calls out for food. It’s almost hard to believe you can find a wine of this caliber at this price. ($14, giesen.co.nz)

Jackson Estate 2013 Stitch Sauvignon Blanc 

Not to be out done by their brethren Jackson Estate, also from the Wairau Valley in New Zealand, traces their English heritage back to the 1840s when they first came to New Zealand. Located about a four-hour drive apart from Giesen this Southern Hemisphere wine expresses plum, lychee, mango, lemon-lime and pineapple, which dominate this clean pure expression of Sauvignon Blanc. There are back notes minerality and acidity rounding out the whole. Aged minimally on the lees - expired yeast cells - gives this a wine a slight viscosity. ($21, jacksonestate.co.nz)

J. Christopher 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

From Oregon’s northern Willamette Valley, better known for Pinot Noir, comes this softer version of Sauvignon Blanc patterned after France’s Loire Valley. There’s lime, lemon, grapefruit and a resin like maturity with more of a mineral note and almond but less overt fruit. This ends up tasting less sweet than other versions you might encounter, yet still feels slightly richer with a noticeable acidity and rounder weight in the mouth. ($20, jchristopherwines.com)

Justin 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

It’s no secret that Justin Winery in Paso Robles has long been one of the leaders of this still up-and-coming wine region in spite of their original plantings being in 1981. But original owner Justin Baldwin knew this region would be best for the traditional Bordeaux varieties including Sauvignon Blanc. Their 2014 Sauvignon Blanc is crisp with tropical notes of lemon-lime, grapefruit, green apple, guava and white peach. Since there was no malo-lactic fermentation this is a light, bright, clean iteration of Sauvignon Blanc, which feels like a perfect summer day in your glass. ($14, justinwine.com)

Kriselle Cellars 2014 Sauvignon Banc

Oregon is best known for the Willamette Valley where Pinot Noir reigns, but the southwestern portion of the state is home to a number of diverse wineries like the Rogue Valley where Kriselle Cellars turns out this terrific little number. It’s different that California in that there is more caramelized pineapple and passion fruit and an upfront limoncello vibe, with a wonderfully long finish. The acidity is full but not piercing, the wine is smooth but still vibrant. Being so close to the Rogue River the noticeable minerality speaks volumes and rounds out the wine making this unique, and a fantastic value for a wine so complex. ($21, krisellecellars.com)

Lula Cellars 2014 Sauvignon Blanc

Located in the teeny tiny town of Philo in the Anderson Valley in Mendocino, the 2014 vintage marks the first Sauvignon Blanc ever released by Lula Cellars. This outstanding wine comes from grapes grown at nearly 2,500-feet elevation ridge top and close proximity to the Pacific coast lending to warm days and cool nights – ideal climate conditions for grape growing. This version offers grapefruit, fig, honeydew, resin, quince and a thread of minerality with a long finish and cleansing acidity. ($22, lulacellers.com)

Ram’s Gate 2014 Carneros Sauvignon Blanc

The Sauvignon Blancs from Rams Gate in Carneros almost defy description. They are herbaceous with lemon-lime, grapefruit, meringue but also vanilla, sweet grass, mango, peach and pear and a moderate mouth feel and buoyant acidity. They are the perfect balance, striking a middle ground that can placate anyone. In part this is because they are stainless steel fermented but then aged on the lees for nine months so there is a minimal sense of body weight and oak treatment without loosing Sauvignon Blancs inherent quality. ($28, ramsgatewinery.com)

Sonoma Loeb 2013 Sonoma County

This winery is known for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay and in fact 2013 was their first ever Sauvignon Blanc but out of the gate they’re knocking it out of the park. Lively and crisp with a mild but noticeable acidity, this offers honeysuckle, lemon-lime, pear and fig, green apple and candied melon. The fruit comes from two distinct Sonoma regions, the Russian River Valley and the Alexander Valley. A partial fermentation in French oak and stainless steel tanks means that you get almond and cedar notes but you don’t lose the tropical flavors like lemon zest, peach and apple typically associated with Sauvignon Blanc. ($18, Sonoma-loeb.com)

Vogelzang Reserve 2012

Though most Sauvignon Blancs are not oaked, some are and to find a superior version of that is tough as usually the oak obliterates the classic fruit. From Santa Barbara’s warmest growing region called Happy Canyon, this Sauvignon Blanc from grape growers turned winery, is a decadent feel of clover honey, tangerine, nectarine, green tea, sweet resin, orange blossom and caramel. The acidity is more muted and it was fermented in neutral French Oak and aged for eight months, using natural yeasts therefore you get a viscosity most wines wish they had. ($32, vogelzangvineyard.com)

 

Duckhorn: The Little Black Dress of Wine

It was Coco Chanel who came up with the Little Black Dress concept in the 1920s; that versatile, unadulterated mainstay and must-have centerpiece to any woman’s wardrobe – a classic piece of clothing that could be accessorized or not; clean, pure, functional and elegant all at the same time. Duckhorn Vineyards in Napa Valley is the Little Black Dress of the wine world. A visit in December 2014 reminded me exactly why this is true.

Duckhorn is best known for Merlot, Cabernet, and Sauvignon Blanc: consistent, elegant, restrained and structured wines that never raise questions of integrity, nor disappoint. They are one of the blue chip wineries in Napa. At my tasting, just like revisiting old friends who get better funnier and more compatible with age, Duckhorn wines are both familiar and comforting, old-school but still cool.

Selena Gomez and her Little Black Dress

Sure, there is always a move towards flashy trendy, current, hip and employing the ‘wow factor.’ But those moments always disappear, and true staying power is what’s important. Think of any actor who splashed on the big screen with accolades, awards and throngs of admirers, but who has since left the building. That’s why they have “Were Are They Now?” shows. Duckhorn will never be that show. The perfect believability of their portfolio of wines is exactly what people crave. As a wine writer, I’ve had these wines for years, under both ownerships, and there has never been fault, only the comfort and subtle appreciation for what is reliable and unfailing.

The porch is the place to fly at Duckhorn

If you have not visited Duckhorn, or are wary of the flashy new hipster wineries in Napa (or elsewhere), consider a re-visit with Duckhorn. Their grounds are beautiful, the interior classy and appealing with maple wood tones and the wrap-around porch is the desired place to be, even on a gray and overcast December day. Checkers the cat will be ambling about, the service will be attentive, courteous and you feel like you’re back where you belong; right where classy meets comfort.Duckhorn.com

See my other Duckhorn portfolio reviews: Goldeneye

Twin Sons of Different Mothers

Summer is fast approaching and typically folks turn to white wines to stave off the heat. I don’t advocate whites in summer and reds in winter – wine is an all-year adventure, be that Champagne, dessert wines or whatever else you might find, there is no “season” in which to drink them. Having said that a pair of terrific lighter wines together on one table provides something for everyone, regardless of the calendar. The 2013 Decoy Sauvignon Blanc out of Sonoma has soft citrus, lime, grapefruit and beautiful mouth feel to make this perfect with appetizers of cheeses, kicking it on your deck. The Decoy lacks the sometimes more astringent nature of Sauvignon Blanc, and has a creamier texture, akin to Chardonnay. Its “brother” is the 2013 Halter Ranch Rose from Paso Robles. This baby rules because this version comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and the wildly offbeat Picpoul Blanc, is simply a standout wine. I love the acidity which is needed for food along with a dark strawberry, black cherry, pomegranate kind of thing. It’s deeper than most roses so if you prefer red wines, this is for you. So find these wines, get them on your table and if it is hot or cold where you are, sunny or overcast, these two wines are the best of both worlds. 

DECOY 

HALTER RANCH 

Tasting With: Joe Lange of Lange Twins Winery – Lodi, California

There are about 60 wine tasting rooms and 80 wineries in Lodi, a lot more than when Credence Clearwater Revival opined about being “stuck in Lodi again” in 1969. Yet most people either,

a) have never heard of Lodi, or,

b) have no idea even remotely where it is (just north of Stockton if that helps). 

So when Joe Lange and his lovely wife, Amanda, came to Santa Barbara in July, 2013, we met for lunch to taste some of his wines and to talk about Lodi, Lange Twins and leverage.

 

Joe is not the winemaker, but he and his four siblings do run the operation. The first vintage was 2005 and this is a family ideal, seeing as how the Lange’s, originally from Germany, are 5^th generation Lodites (I don’t think that’s the correct term, but I like it). The land they currently grow grapes on - much is sold to other wineries under contract- was, back in the day, dry farmed watermelon. Joe’s grandfather planted grapes and made some wine, but it wasn’t really a business enterprise until Joe’s father and his twin brother, Randall and Bradford, decided to get serious about wine. 

Joe & Amanda Lange

Currently Lange Twins growing 23 different varieties, and growing them as certified green and sustainable - after all, we need to respect our earth. But it took borrowing money from the bank and fully leveraging everything they had to create their winery however Joe tells me the Lange family is totally committed, an “all hands on deck,” philosophy. And since Lodi isn’t on the radar for most people, they have more work to do than a winery located in a known wine region. But Lodi is working towards a more wine-centric core with new places to stay and new restaurants coming on line. Currently it’s a stop on the way to or from someplace else: drive in off Highway 99, visit a few wineries, then leave. But places like Lange Twins will encourage folks to stay a little bit longer. The great thing about Lange Twins is price to quality, something I constantly look for and promote. Aside from Joe’s favorite, the Petite Verdot, try the wines and discover your personal preference. LANGE TWINS

Caricature is one of their most popular wines

What We Tasted Together

2009 Midnight Reserve ($30) a Bordeaux blend of Cab, Merlot, a wee bit of Petit Verdot and an even wee-er bit of Malbec. There’s cocoa and blackberry: a meet n’ greet of bright red fruit, followed by darker, deeper notes on the mid and back palate.

2011 Sauvignon Blanc – Musque Clone ($13) a mild non-grassy Sauv Blanc, the Musque gives it a more floral element and it’s aged sur lie. This is not an aggressive herbaceous wine, but a soft and restrained one.

2011 Moscato (13) a super wine with just 4% residual sugar so it hints at sweet but isn’t candy. Love the beautiful nose of pear, lemon and honeysuckle. It’s easy to drink this like water – you’ve been warned.

2010 Zinfandel ($15) is all bang for the buck here. It’s blueberry and spice, raspberry and pepper, and has some 103 year old-vine Zin in this vintage. All about quality.

New Wines--New Zealand: Pinot Poses Promisingly

Tim Atkin explains New Zealand Pinot Noir

I was invited this February to join Master of Wine and wine writer Tim Atkin (a very nice British Man) and other wine industry folks at the New Zealand Consulate General’s house in Los Angeles to sample through a variety of New Zealand Pinot Noirs. You might be thinking - New Zealand makes Pinot Noir? That’s exactly the point. Better known for Sauvignon Blanc and Shiraz (called Syrah in the, ahem, Northern Hemisphere), New Zealand is a small country full of surprises. It’s one thing to have Pinot Noir from some random place in New Zealand, and it’s another matter entirely to sample through multiple regions within the country so you get a solid understanding of what the whole place is capable of producing.

I tasted through 18 New Zealand Pinot Noirs:

~6 wines from Martinborough, Nelson, and Waipara (what stood out: 2010 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna, reflective of bright, expressive, more California-ish fruit),

~6 wines from the best known grape region; Marlborough (what stood out: the 2010 Seresin “Leah” with its biodynamically produced grapes;

~6 wines from Central Otago (what stood out: the 2011 Burn Cottage with its smoky quality, and the 2010 Felton Road from Bannockburn) which showed the most fun and unusual characteristics, and a region that Atkin says playfully is populated with "remarkable misfits." The diversity of styles reflects how the subtle and not so subtle regions (and sub-regions) allow for a broad expression of Pinot Noir. Some are earthy, fleshy and rich like California, others present a minerality and quiet finesse, “fine-boned” as Mr. Atkins put it, others were nuanced and subtle, and frankly some tasted like no other Pinot Noir I’ve come across – less fruit and more hard-to-define austere. The point of this exercise, and what I’m advocating here, is to try something new the next time you’re out and about. Should a New Zealand Pinot Noir be offered by the glass or bottle, don’t be timid – try it. There were certain ones which were not my stylistic preference, but none of the wines were inferior. You will discover a new world of Pinot, only if you’re willing to experiment. So get to it, your taste buds will thank you.  NEW ZEALAND WINES