Twin Sons of Different Mothers

Summer is fast approaching and typically folks turn to white wines to stave off the heat. I don’t advocate whites in summer and reds in winter – wine is an all-year adventure, be that Champagne, dessert wines or whatever else you might find, there is no “season” in which to drink them. Having said that a pair of terrific lighter wines together on one table provides something for everyone, regardless of the calendar. The 2013 Decoy Sauvignon Blanc out of Sonoma has soft citrus, lime, grapefruit and beautiful mouth feel to make this perfect with appetizers of cheeses, kicking it on your deck. The Decoy lacks the sometimes more astringent nature of Sauvignon Blanc, and has a creamier texture, akin to Chardonnay. Its “brother” is the 2013 Halter Ranch Rose from Paso Robles. This baby rules because this version comprised of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and the wildly offbeat Picpoul Blanc, is simply a standout wine. I love the acidity which is needed for food along with a dark strawberry, black cherry, pomegranate kind of thing. It’s deeper than most roses so if you prefer red wines, this is for you. So find these wines, get them on your table and if it is hot or cold where you are, sunny or overcast, these two wines are the best of both worlds. 

DECOY 

HALTER RANCH 

Creating Pedigree: Cabernet & Paso Robles

Napa lays claim to Cabernet Sauvignon like they invented it. They didn’t of course in spite of being the dominant region in the U.S. However Paso Robles is positioning itself to challenge Napa and this central California region is producing Cabernet and Bordeaux blends offering terrific value and diversity, something Napa often takes for granted.

“There is something about the Napa Valley’s unique topography, climate and growing season that is perfectly suited to Cabernet,” says Ann Colgin of Napa’s Colgin Estate, whose Cabernets sell for $300 (ouch). “While Napa Valley wines can be expensive, there is no substitute for the pedigree of fruit this region is capable of producing.” And she’s correct…to a degree. But pedigree will only take you so far, you still need to deliver the goods, at a price and perceived value the consumer will buy. Let’s be honest – average wine consumers are not buying $300 bottles of Napa Cabernet.

“If you want to know how good Paso Robles Cabernet is,” suggests Gary Eberle of Eberle Winery, “have a blind tasting of Napa Cabernet and a Paso Robles Cabernet. We may not always come out on top, but we can compete against Bordeaux and Napa first growths,” he says. But can Paso Cabernet compete in an already crowded field? “Consumers can expect wines that are approachable immediately but yet will age beautifully for years,” says Daniel Daou of Daou Vineyards, one of the founders of PRCC. “An indication of a great terroir is where ripeness can be achieved most if not all the time. In Paso Robles we achieve ripeness consistently from year to year and our wines come from soils that are calcareous, so they don't have to be acidulated,” Daou says. Is Paso Robles the ideal spot to grow Cabernet? “I looked for 10 years for the perfect place to grow Cabernet,” Daou tells me, including searching Argentina, Spain and Bordeaux. “Paso is cooler than Calistoga, we have the right soils. I believe that Paso is the ultimate appellation for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, but we need a little time to reach our potential.”

Unconvinced? Well then the Paso Robles Cabernet Collective held April 25^th - 30^th is just for you. There are winery tasting room events, the ubiquitous Grand Tasting on Saturday, April 26th, winemaker dinners, and the like. Should you go? Yes. Will Paso Robles compete against Napa for Cabernet supremacy? Well, not for a while. But having sampled some of the top Cabernet producers like Daou, L’Aventure, Justin, Eberle, Jada, Vina Robles, Halter Ranch, Robert Hall and others, there is the possibility that if Napa blinks, Paso Robles will pounce, and attending the Paso Robles Cabernet Collective’s Cabs of Distinction will give you a window into the future.

PASO ROBLES CAB COLLECTIVE 

The Best of 2013

As a wine and spirits writer for a variety of publications like The Hollywood Reporter, The Tasting Panel, IntoWine.com, Draft, Fine Wine & Liquor (China) and others, I taste through a lot of booze in a given year. 2013 was a good year, but not a great year, for new discoveries. I’ve listed the top 5 wines and the top 5 spirits I rated this year. If you get the chance, I suggest you put them on your dance card. And for 2014, don't be afraid to try something new...and let me know about it!

2013’s Top 5 Wines

Croft 2011 Vintage Port (91)

2011 was a declared Vintage year and this Port shows why. Viscous and rich with hefty black cherry, slightly smoky wood, dusty cinnamon, suburb tannins and proper acidic undertones – this is why people drink port – not to get a sugar rush, but to bask in the rich, opulent, smooth wine which is just so damn fun to drink. $120

Halter Ranch 2010 Ancestor (91)

Coming from Paso Robles on California’s Central Coast the Ancestor has great notes of cedar, blackberry, dark cherry, cinnamon and raspberry, a lush, rich wine which always calls for a 2nd bottle. It is seamless with its tannins, use of oak, pop of fruit and its smooth finish. $50

LaZarre 2012 Vin Gris (90)

Rose needs more love and for this little jewel there's a nice little acidity perfect for food with flavors of cranberry pomegranate and to a lesser degree, strawberry. It has an almost earthy, smoky quality to it and it’s lean and clean. $18

Vina Ventisquero/Grey 2011 Carménère (90)

From Chile comes this outstanding example of this unknown grape. This happy little number has a boatload of rustic zesty black cherry, rich red and black fruit, spicy pepper, and a slight acidity. $23.99

Robert Hall 2010 Merlot (90)

Paso Robles is Cabernet country, but Merlot is best expressed by Don Brady and his devotion to this grape. I’ve tasted though various years of his Merlots and they always work. Earthy, rustic, clean and soft tannins. $18

2013’s Top 5 Spirits

Herradura Reposado Tequila (90)

This reposado really intrigued me with its smooth caramel and resin flavors, sweet oak and a stealth citrus back note. Clean and viscous, there's a slight burn and a beautiful butterscotch aroma. $40

Stone Barn Brandyworks Coffee Liqueur (89)

Available only in Oregon, sadly, this this is a blend of coffee from El Salvador and Yemen. They infuse a house-distilled Pinot Noir brandy and pear/apple spirit with fresh roasted coffee. Toss in some Madagascar vanilla, cinnamon and invert the sugar to make the liqueur and, voila! $27

Bully Boy White Whiskey (89)

USDA certified organic white whiskey therefore it’s clear and lacking the caramel and wood flavors. There’s a smooth viscosity to this, a little burn but the liquor is rounded inside the mouth. This is clean, with near mint overtones, and it presents a cooler vibe not hot and alcoholic, medium bodied and subtle. $28

Hornitos Lime Shot (89)

Using blue agave, lime and salt this is cool, clean, minty, and yes, limey, and way too easy to drink. It's certainly drinkable on its own though it works better as a mixer. $18

Astral Tequila (88)

This tequila is produced from nothing but organic blue agave (I’m always a fan of organic if the end result is a better product). It has a cool clean nose of resin and eucalyptus and a spicy mint-ish vibe which grips the mouth. $34.99

Ancestry dot WIne

I don’t know my ancestor’s that well but I can bet they never drank wine like this in the Old Country. Halter Ranch is one of my favorite wineries in Paso Robles creating solid Cabernet blends and Syrah, Viognier, Zinfandel and the like - a broad portfolio of very good and dependable wines. But there’s nothing old in style about their flagship 2010 Ancestor Estate Reserve a blending of 39% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petit Verdot, and 26% Malbec. At just 900 cases made, this is one of those wines which proves that Paso is best at making Bordeaux varieties. The Ancestor has great notes of cedar, blackberry, dark cherry, cinnamon and raspberry, a lush, rich wine which always calls for a 2^nd bottle. It is seamless with its tannins, use of oak, pop of fruit and its smooth finish. True, at more than 15% alcohol it’s a hefty boy, (and I’m not a fan, generally, of high alcohol wines), but they get it right here, a mix of all the elements which make this a very wonderful wine – perfect to linger over with a freshly grilled steak. The aging of 18 months in half new and half older oak barrels serves this wine well, without making it all about wood, because the fruit is clean and evident. Drinking the Ancestor will make you feel young: if not, then drink more until you do feel young. HALTER RANCH

ORIGIN: Paso Robles, California

PRICE: $50 / 750/ml

ALCOHOL: 15.5%

BOOZEHOUNDZ SCORE:  91 POINTS